Tony's Tango 5.6 T1 at Harmels, just north of Gunnison, CO. My climbing had been steadily increasing for some time, often seconding much harder routes and making my lead climber jealous at how quickly I was meeting him at the anchors. He would look at me and I would just say “Yeah, but you did it on lead...it's much different on lead.” I had wanted to work my way up to leading, but it was just so much fun (and rewarding) to climb the harder routes with the “safety net” of a top rope. Finally, I had already climbed this route once, knew I could do it with no problem, but still only climbed it on mock lead, having my partner go up and critique all of my placements. It was a success, the ones I felt good about he felt good about, the ones I didn't feel comfortable with, he said weren't as good. Phew, I felt better about gear placement...after all I had been taking pro out for how long? I almost lead that route again (for real this time), but wanted my first true lead to be something new, something I hadn't climbed, or even seen, before.

I, Robot 5.7 at Happy Hour Crag in Boulder Canyon, CO. I did not like cracks near as much as faces but was determined to get my first lead in. I was in a new area, there was a crack I hadn't climbed before, it wasn't a terribly long pitch, I was feeling good, and hey, there was no time like the present. Ready, set, hmm, do I really want to do this? I mean it is good to climb the harder stuff, push my climbing limits... but wait, it is also good to lead, really pushing my climbing limitations. OK, first cam in, it feels sturdy, it looks solid, but wait, I better extend it just in case it wants to walk... oh, but wait, that means that I can fall further, well, better put another piece in, ya know, just to be sure... let's try a nut this time... ok, that looks good, but nuts like to pop out really easily... another extension. OK, let me get up a bit further, feet just below my first placements, and steady...why did I agree to lead a crack again? My feet keep wanting to slip! Oh no, hurry, hurry, get something in... no, take a deep breath, do this right. What piece is going to fit here better?? Hexes, I like hexes, they just fit...ok, try this one, nope too bit, way too big... something smaller, no, too small...shoot, my feet are slipping! Calm down, calm down, this is only 5.7, I climb much harder all the time... ok, this nut seems to fit perfectly, phew, much better, oh but wait, better extend it, don't want my piece falling out on me!

This process went on for most of the climb. It took me much longer to climb this short 5.7 than the longer 5.9s or 5.10s I had been seconding. However, when I got to the anchors I felt great! I had always had a huge respect for lead climbers, but this just made it solidify even more. And what's more, I had finally broken in to that elite club by becoming a leader myself! I felt good on the climb, although I had to scold myself for making it harder than it was (but it wasn't!) and looked at my handiwork on the way down. All of my pieces were still in, that's good. My partner cleaned my route for me and said my pieces looked good. Phew, first lead down. It was a success.. What's next??

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Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

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