UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (107) - Slugs on the Whangie

© Steve Bell
photo
Slugs on the Whangie #1
© Steve Bell

The Whangie – a glacially plucked fin of rock or the result of a horned up Devil flicking his tail in anticipation of a night of naughtiness. Either way, the location of my first lead – Ivy Crack.

I'd bought a rope the weekend before and with the change could afford four bits of gear – two hexes, a number 7 nut and a sling. I figured the sling would be good for a belay round the chockstone at the top and the rest would be plenty -- it was only a 10 metre route after all. And I'd seconded it in big bendy boots a few weeks before.

So, one soggy Sunday afternoon in September, Nick and I squelched round the edge of Auchineden Hill and got to the base of the climb. Amazing the difference a few weeks can make. I didn't remember the crack being so greasy, licheny and full of slugs. Anyway, harness on and wobbled up the first couple of moves, it bulges a bit here so better pop a bit of gear in. Hex slotted. Over the bulgy bit, angle's a wee bit awkward – keeps pushing me off balance - time for another hex. Just fits. Good. Two more moves upwards and out pops the hex. And disco knee sets in. Breathe, swear, pluck slug out of crack. God, this seems steep. Better put in another bit of gear. It's my last one. I'm 15 maybe 20 feet up– the climb is thirty five feet. Do the math. But I cannot go down.

OK, upwards, into the recess below the big bulge. It's nice in here. But the only way up is to reach backwards over the drop, out on the right hand wall and stretch. Thank god I'm tall. My fingers curl around the edge at the top and I fling my other hand over and haul. The euphoria is incredible. I swing round the edge, I'm in balance and a staircase beckons. Trot up, thread the chock – “Come on Nick, it's brilliant”.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE



Comments

Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email