WINNER: Grump Gnome

Since the 1970s La Sportiva has been at the forefront of innovation. With the introduction of the Speedster and "No Edge" technology  developed by climbing shoe specialist Pietro Dal Pra, La Sportiva eliminated the classic “edges” which the climber had relied on over the years and provided a unique approach to climbing footwear. 

La Sportiva's latest addition to the “No Edge” range, the “Genius” is available from retailers now and combines the unique sensitivity and performance guaranteed by the No Edge construction method with the comfort, accuracy and inner volume customization of a lace-up shoe. These features guarantee enhanced performance without the need for an excessively tight fit.  This is a very important aspect because it also makes the shoe suitable for different types of feet.

"I believe this is the biggest step forward in the evolution of climbing and I'm convinced this technology can also contribute to the evolution of a climber's personal climbing technique.  These shoes "teach" us how to move more freely, lightly and naturally over the rock surface.  Lightweight, fluidity and naturalness; these are the most important aspects of the vertical lifestyle.  This is the philosophy promoted by the no edge technical concept. I know some people will disagree with me, but when I return to wearing traditional climbing shoes with edges, I feel as though my climbing has suddenly become somewhat 'primitive'."

No-Edge is not intended to be a substitute but a revolutionary alternative for the majority of free climbing routes on different types of rock. (Our No-Edge models the Genius, Speedster and Futura are the only boots to have made a true difference in my climbing, the only ones to have prevented me from failing onsight routes, and the only ones that have allowed my climbing to go 110% all the way).

No-Edge makes climbing even more fun! Test them with your hands, not just with your feet; push a shoe with edges onto a rock surface and make rotational movements, as if you were drawing a circle.  Try to transport the sensation to rock climbing!  Then do the same thing with Genius, Speedster or Futura...and try again. Feeling is believing.

Unfortunately, all my talking hasn't always been convincing. It is difficult for climbers to change their convictions and abandon their favourite climbing shoe.  It is equally difficult to overcome one's mental barrier and step into a revolutionary shoe.  Major changes are always a little frightening.

Pietro Dal Pra

See more at lyon.co.uk.

Prize: A pair of La Sportiva Genius (Subject to size availability. An alternative in your size may be offered.)