UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (115) - Sea, Seals and Slabs

© Lisa Maguire
photo
After a hairy scramble down - at the bottom of the cliff!
© Lisa Maguire

You don't get tides in the Lakes. And more often than not, it's pretty straightforward to get to the foot of a climb. And unless it's very windy, you can hear your partner call from a thirty foot belay just around a corner. Not so in Pembrokeshire. We spent the week, my second ever outdoor trip, learning that sea cliff climbing was a whole new kettle of fish. Excuse the pun.

I wasn't confident abseiling, so we stuck to climbs we could scramble down, of which there seemed plenty in North Pembrokeshire, according to the guide. Except that the 'scrambles' were more like V Diffs. At one point, my partner had to convince me how much fun we would have going back up again in order to get me to move from the very comfortable spot I had managed to get myself into half way down a particularly loose cliff. Add to that scramble grass on the higher slopes and seaweed at the bottom, neither a great combination with rock boots, and you had one extremely nervous novice climber even before she started climbing. To further test my nerves, we had to constantly keep an eye on the tides. I didn't fancy a swimming belay stance much.

Our only company was the ever watchful seals in the bays at the bottom, there wasn't another climber in sight. That, plus the views, made for an exhilarating climbing experience. After a couple of days of routes on some very friable rock, we discovered gabbro. Oh joy. At last, a rock that doesn't come off in your hand. It then that I decided I should do my first lead.

The route I chose was only a Diff (The Rake) and as I was seconding Severes, I thought I'd be away. With the sound of crashing waves to accompany me, I confidently set off. I located a very nice wire about ten feet up and felt very pleased with myself. Well I thought it was ten feet. It turned out to be nearer four. My ever patient boyfriend said afterwards that my placements were excellent, but perhaps I should consider being a little more 'economical' with my gear. Then came the crux. An easy step around an overhanging slab onto the next slab above. I could have done it in my sleep. Except that below me was angry sea crashing onto some serious pointy rocks, which was playing havoc with my already nerve-wracked mind. I stood on two nubbins for quite some time, contemplating my imminent demise, during which time my legs started to ache. But I got over it, and the rock step, eventually, and reached the second, slightly more exposed slab. With all the nervous energy I had expended to this point, it was no surprise what happened next. I got disco leg. Oh yes. My right leg wasn't staying still however cross I got with it. Somehow, I got the next piece of gear in and it was one final, fairly easy scramble to the top.

Elated, I carefully set up my three point belay, as I had been taught and proudly called down to my partner to start climbing. He called back, in a patient, if slightly weary, voice 'You need to pull the rope in first!' Oh well. I'm sure I'll get better with practice.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE



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