UKC

Freewheel woes...

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 gravy 16 Mar 2018

Help! this winter has eaten my bike.

My freewheel keeps missing and I'm guessing it has succumbed to the gritters (my pedals have just been replaced for this reason). IIRC from the last cassette change the freewheel looked integral to the hub and didn't look easy to service. Copious oil helps a little but it is getting worse. 

Anyone know how to service / fix or am Iooking at a new wheel as the most economic fix?

FWIW the wheel has done about 20k miles over 10 years but other than the freewheel it is doing good.

 Yanis Nayu 17 Mar 2018
In reply to gravy:

I don’t know, but the GCN videos on YouYube cover most things. 

 Dave B 17 Mar 2018
In reply to gravy:

 

The free-hub is part of the spline part.

Brand and model?

Some are replaceable with a big Allen key .which is dead easy if you can remove it. Istr shimano was a 10 mm Allen. I did it once about 20 years ago, but not since.  

Some one with more modern knowledge will probably help more. 

 

 ianstevens 17 Mar 2018
In reply to gravy:

Take it to the LBS? I'm happy with most bike jobs, but freewheels and hubs I make "not my problem" (rather, my wallets problem).

 stewart murray 17 Mar 2018
In reply to gravy:

Like Dave B said it should be replaceable. If it's one of the lower spec Shimano ones it can be cheaper to buy a new hub than just the freewheel. You can then cannibalise it and replace both the freewheel and cones and bearings at the same time. 

 Sam W 17 Mar 2018
In reply to gravy:

On better quality hubs you can usually remove the splined section and clean out the ratchet mechanism.  A google for your model of hub should produce helpful information.

If it is dead, the most economical way forward will depend on the quality and condition of the rest of the wheel, how much you value your time, and mechanical ability.  Working on wheels at home is satisfying when it goes well, but can also eat up hours of time and result in a very wonky wheel.

 girlymonkey 17 Mar 2018
In reply to gravy:

I have changed several on outdoor centre bikes. All have been pretty straight forward. I haven't had the need to on any more modern bikes, so they may be more complicated. I'd have a go and see. If it is simple, then happy days. If not, then take it to lbs

 Stig 17 Mar 2018
In reply to gravy: Shimano freewheels come off with a 10 or 12mm Allen key. fulcrum hubs are trickier and I get my LBS to do it. 

Your freewheel has done pretty well - you should be pleased. My Fulcrum “CX” hubs went after one season of filthy winter commenting. Whereas the previous stock wheels did about 8 years with zero servicing.

 

 gethin_allen 17 Mar 2018
In reply to Stig:

> Shimano freewheels come off with a 10 or 12mm Allen key. fulcrum hubs are trickier and I get my LBS to do it. 

> Your freewheel has done pretty well - you should be pleased. My Fulcrum “CX” hubs went after one season of filthy winter commenting. Whereas the previous stock wheels did about 8 years with zero servicing.

This could be a fulcrum issue, the bearings in my racing 5s were getting crunchy after very little tame riding and if I hadn't replaced the bearings in the free hub it would surely have failed not long after.

Shimano hubs on the other hand have given me decades of good service with minimal maintenance.

 Stig 17 Mar 2018
In reply to gethin_allen: yep the wheels are garbage. fulcrum sport dB cx. 

Ive got Campag Zondas though which supposedly come from the same factory and they’ve been fine for a few years with zero maintenance.

 

 gethin_allen 17 Mar 2018
In reply to Stig:

"...Ive got Campag Zondas though which supposedly come from the same factory and they’ve been fine for a few years with zero maintenance."

Fulcrum are apparently just campag wheels for people running shimano who couldn't bare to have a mix of campag and shimano on their bike.

The other thing fulcrum don't tell you when you buy their wheels is that the stated weights are for the campag free hub and the shimano free hub weighs ~100g more.

 

 

In reply to gravy:

My freehub was pretty easy to open up with standard tools - I think there was a nut on one side that I got an adjustable spanner on with an allen key through from the other side.  The issue for me was some grotty water had seeped in over time creating surface tension and letting the pawls stick in open position.  Quick clean down and a re-lube and everything was good.

Assuming a similar mechanism, your oiling may be contributing to the issue.  The manufacturers normally specify a very light oil otherwise you get the same sticky surface tension effect.  Instead of the proprietary mavic/shimano branded oils, I plumbed for some sewing machine oil; a fraction of the price and it has done a wonderful job. 

OP gravy 22 Mar 2018

Thanks folks - some progress:

It's a shimano type freehub - I've dismantled the wheel to get the hub off but I was unable to remove the cone from the freehub - my improvised tool was ok and I gave it some considerable welly but the cone wouldn't budge and I couldn't dismantle the freehub itself.

At this point I've given it a bloody good soak in degreaser and lightly oiled it and fingers crossed it works today for my commute but I have some doubts...

Does anyone know the dimensions of the correct cone tool? I might be able to make a better tool today.  Also does anyone know if the replacement hubs come with the cone in place (I know this might sound daft but I think the cone holds the hub together so it might be integral).  If it isn't part of the hub I'm still going to have to work out how to remove the old one...

 

 

Makemake002 22 Mar 2018
In reply to gravy:

yup GCN "How To Change A Bicycle Cassette" is really helpful. It shows the signs if you need to  replace your cassette


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