UKC

trying to decide which holdset to get. Anyone climbed on both and able to offer a comparison?

I climb at the lower end of the MB scale so particularly interested in observations from people at simillar level

Also in terms of style more interested in hard tensiony moves rather than massive throws between jugs

My local wall just changed from 2019 to 2024 so I can give some thoughts.

For the 2024 set, the problems start at 6B+ instead of 6A+ for 2019. However, I don't actually think the easiest problems on the new set are harder than the easiest problems on 2019, so presumably this is an attempt to combat the sandbagging of the 2019 set.

The new holds are larger and generally friendlier than the crimpy holds from 2019, especially the yellow ones.

I don't think any problems on any moonboard sets are massive throws between jugs, there aren't many jugs on any moonboard sets. I think the holds are versatile enough to set interesting problems in different styles at different grades.

There aren't many benchmarks yet for the new set, but that will presumably improve with time.

If you're not climbing super hard and you don't love horrendous crimps, I would say the 2024 set is better. But I know other people think it's worse, so ymmv

I will disagree - lots of moonboard problems descend into big throws between quite big holds, and 2024 is as prone to this as the other sets in my limited experience of it. 

OP: if you want hard tensiony moves I'd suggest a kilter home hold set - lots of smaller edges and hence more tension based climbing. Or just buy a set of screw ons and build your own! System board holds are pretty expensive. 

The same size Kilter home set is about ~£6k mainline (just for the holds and LEDs). £10k if you add in the auxiliary set. My wife would kill me 😂 

we had a smaller spray wall during Covid which we used a huge amount but i’m not great at setting routes that are right at my limit… just don’t have the imagination/vision