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Any Recommended Peak Limestone Bouldering?

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 afx22 13 May 2021

Can anyone recommend any of the limestones venues in the White Peak for bouldering?  

I’d prefer a range of grades from F5 to low F7’s or so.  A nice setting would be a bonus.

I’ve been to loads of the limestone venues in the South Yorkshire area but only Harborough and The P further south.  Raven Tor and Blackwell Dale look interesting for instance.

Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance.

Post edited at 16:06
 ebdon 13 May 2021
In reply to afx22:

You do realise limestone bouldering, like caving, is the sole preserve of perverts, freaks and weirdos?

That being said for my sins I have been enjoying the delights of the magnesian limestone east of the M1, Pleasly vale, Annston stones and Roche abbey are all nice with a good spread of grades (allthough be wary of access issues)

More peak centric across the road from the p you have shining Tor whitch has a nice aspect, theres also minor venues like miners 10 (not minus 10 whitch really is for perverts) which are worthwhile. Cant comment on the likes of Raven tor as it's all too hard, the mere thought makes my fingers hurt.

OP afx22 13 May 2021
In reply to ebdon:

Ha ha!  I’m a limestone bouldering pervert but only once it’s too warm for grit.

Thanks for the suggestions.  I’ve been to Anston (loads and Roche but not Pleasley Vale.

Post edited at 18:04
 ebdon 13 May 2021
In reply to afx22:

The yew tree wall area is well worth a vist for the grades you mention, a lot less steep than most of Roche or Anston (I.e not a cave) but a bit more techy.

 deepsoup 13 May 2021
In reply to afx22:

> A nice setting would be a bonus.

While the weather is still on the cooler side, how about a session pulling on the pockets at Rheinstor?

 Si dH 13 May 2021
In reply to afx22:

There are lots of good areas in Wye area between Bakewell and Buxton. My favourites are Crag X and Blackwell Dale but there is obviously loads to do at Rubicon, the Tor and various other venues depending what style of climbing you like. The odd place scattered further north/west too. I assume you have a guidebook. Great for low 7s but you won't get 5s. There tends to be the odd problem in the mid-high 6s but either rubbish or very polished.

Further south around Matlock area there's not as much good limestone bouldering but Nuda's Tartan is quite fun for somewhere a bit different. There are a few other venues supposedly good for vertical techy stuff (like Rheinstor) but that's not my bag so I never bothered. The P is ok, fairly reliable and you can push a buggy there but the rock isn't the best. I think there is a cave in Dovedale which is supposed to be good for steep stuff but I haven't been and I think it probably starts in the mid 7s.

Post edited at 18:32
 Offwidth 13 May 2021
In reply to afx22:

Try:  Pleasley (shaded by trees); The P in Matlock (shady and often dry in drizzle from the west); and Harborough (good for cooler spring days as its a bit of a sun trap).... a good mix.

In reply to afx22:

Another vote for Rheinstor, not steep but the pockets are shallow enough to keep it interesting. Nowhere is going to be as good as the P though 😍

OP afx22 14 May 2021
In reply to afx22:

Thanks everyone.  That’ll given me some new places to explore.  I just need it to stop raining now.

 climber34neil 14 May 2021
In reply to afx22:

Rhienstor is great , especially when coupled with a visit to nudas,  makes a good session


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