UKC

Hiya,

I'm thinking of going to Melloblocco this year. I've not been before, and I was wondering what it's like? I would be going on my own for probably 3 days rather than 4. My main questions are where it actually is (says Val di Mello but as I won't have a car it might be useful to know somewhere more specific)? I'm also not 100% sure what it is? Seems kinda hard to tell. There's the competition (which I wouldn't have a chance in) but is there other stuff? Also, have others been on a budget? Seems like it could be quite expensive for 3-4 days given the flights, food, transport, etc. Basically, any anecdotes and info will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Sam

In reply to samben6:

I haven't been to Melloblocco but I have been to the area for bouldering last year and am going again this year for most of the spring, so I can answer most general queries and some Melloblocco-specific questions to the best of my understanding.

The event is held in the Mello bouldering area, described in the Mello bouldering guide book, which encompasses 3 connected valleys: Val Masino, Val Di Mello and Valle dei Bagni. There are many sectors in each of these areas. Every year they open new boulders and new bouldering areas for the festival so there are fresh problems for the competitions.

Regarding transportation, even without the festival, you do not need a car for the bouldering in the valley. For the festival they specifically discourage cars. You can reach the valley from Milan via train to Morbegno, and bus to San Martino, which lies at the top of the Val Masino. There are accomodation options (limited and can be quite expensive) or camping in one of the campsites.

Flights to Milano are very cheap from UK, and if camping the whole trip could be done on a small budget, especially if not renting crash pads due to the festival.

I cant speak for the activities at the festival, but I do not think that every attending is doing the comp or is some pro athlete. From what I understand, it's a more complete bouldering festival for everyone with a comp for the strong.

Speaking for the area, in my opinion it is one of the greatest bouldering areas in the world and is superior to many more well known and popular areas in Europe. The abundance of incredible lines, especially if you climb around 7a-7c, is truly incredible. In addition it is without a doubt the most beautiful area I have bouldered in.

In reply to CGEvans:

Thanks, that was a super helpful write up!! Hope you have a great trip in Spring!

In reply to CGEvans: on a tangent, how easy is it to hire pads im general, outside of the mellobloc weekend?

In reply to joem:

Last year I rented two pads (Camp minido pads) from Fiorelli sport in San Martino. It was quite easy, but I think 8€ a day per pad for quite small and old pads wasn't ideal.

Not sure if there are other places to rent, I struggled to find info.

This year I drive, so will bring my own, and if I went again by plane I would probably bring my own if I couldn't find a better place to rent.

In reply to samben6:

I've been albeit about 17 or possibly 18 (!) years ago so it may well have changed significantly as it would have been one of the first versions. I used to live in Italy and it's quite a standard thing to have a mini climbing festival with "competition" and party. most people attend for the fun, they used to break things down between the pro climbers and more punters, so there would almost be two versions of the competition but again, no idea if still works like that.

We had a campervan between a load of us further down the valley in a designated site with shuttles up to the climbing areas during the day, super easy to get around.

Then parties in the evening. 

There were always loads of people on boulders so tbh you'd probably be fine without a pad and could tag onto groups i'd imagine.

We lived closer to Turin, and flights to both Turin and Milan are pretty frequent and cheap from the UK and not too far to drive either if you hire a car