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Best bouldering for newbie

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Good morning, 

After being generously donated a bouldering pad by the incredible Dax  of this parish ,  I'm interested in where people think would be good venue for me to visit when I can ?

Of course I will check out the guide books as well.  I'm just interested in other peoples thoughts on the Derbyshire bouldering venues ?

Indoors at the unit I could with manage V4-6 range an a good day , how would that translate to outdoors if it can at all ? 

This has probably been covered time and time again on here but hey its climbing talk and not about the pandemic and politics for a change .

Any general thoughts on this are welcome.

Thanks in advance 

TWS

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 tjdodd 17 Nov 2020
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

Finally.  You will love getting out.

Burbage south is the classic starting point.  But also Burbage North, Stanage Far Right and Stanage Plantation.  Also Robin Hood's Stride and Cratcliffe.  The Roaches is also worth a trip.  Plenty of other venues in the guidebooks.  Nothing like seeking out a quiet spot for a session.  I find bouldering is about the only time I feel content with life at the moment.

Be prepared to drop your grade quite a bit from indoors.  You will be warming up on VB's and V0's anyway so take it from there.

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 Offwidth 17 Nov 2020
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

The Froggatt Guide and Limestone South has many good venues around Matlock that are some of the best in the peak area in winter. The closest bouldering to Derby is the very esoteric Horsley Castle (problems not detailed). Cademan woods is to the SE near Coalville (some access issues). This online resource is also useful for cool kids:

https://esotericboulderingcompanion.weebly.com/

Post edited at 08:48
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 afx22 17 Nov 2020
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

Tom Randall put up a good video on this subject just last night.  And it’s filed at Burbage South too.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKuDS3r_5l4&

He forgot to mention that checking how to get down is important.

it’s well worth buying the Rockfax Peak Bouldering guide.  That’ll open a whole new world.

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 Offwidth 17 Nov 2020
In reply to afx22:

The Rockfax guide is poor for the Southern Peak but very good for the more popular areas in the Peak.

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 George Frisby 17 Nov 2020
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

I think the best easy circuits (f5 and below) are at curbar, roaches and maybe Burbage. Find not too much easy stuff at Stanage Plantation. 

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 spenser 17 Nov 2020
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

Burbage South and Cratcliffe/ Robin Hood's Stride are both great, Roaches has a huge amount to go at too. I am happy to go for a visit to one on Sunday as weather looks ok?

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In reply to spenser:

> Burbage South and Cratcliffe/ Robin Hood's Stride are both great, Roaches has a huge amount to go at too. I am happy to go for a visit to one on Sunday as weather looks ok?

OK cool, 

Lets keep and eye on the weather and see how it works out . I have transport again now .  My car brakes broke when we last went out .

Had them fixed yesterday £180 Arghhhh  .

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 spenser 17 Nov 2020
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

Sounds good, ouch about the brakes! All of these crags are easier to find than Pleasley and don't have weird gated roads to the best of my knowledge!

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In reply to spenser:

> Sounds good, ouch about the brakes! All of these crags are easier to find than Pleasley and don't have weird gated roads to the best of my knowledge!

Excellent .   I'll look forward to it.

:-D

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 afx22 17 Nov 2020
In reply to Offwidth:

Agreed.

But I like the Rockfax guide for many reasons, but especially for how easy it is to quickly see which venues have the greatest clusters of climbs, at the target grades.  It’s about the easiest one to determine where a line goes, if it’s a sit start and so on.

I think it’s a great first guidebook for those that do intend the visit the areas it does cover.

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In reply to The Wild Scallion:

Lower and upper tier bouldering at the Roaches is a really excellent experience. Mostly good landings, fantastic view and brilliant rock. The area below the Inertia Reel Traverse is sublime, as is the Piece of Mind area. A quick whizz up the steps to the upper tier is also excellent.

were you climbing at the Unit just before this recent lockdown? I thought the grades had gone up on the reset circuits, so you should get on ok outside. Make sure you think about where best to place your pad for where you think you might land. Always have a little look for the way down to make sure it’s ok. 
 

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In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

> Lower and upper tier bouldering at the Roaches is a really excellent experience. Mostly good landings, fantastic view and brilliant rock. The area below the Inertia Reel Traverse is sublime, as is the Piece of Mind area. A quick whizz up the steps to the upper tier is also excellent.

Sounding good,  and not to far .   I will check this out .

> were you climbing at the Unit just before this recent lockdown?

Yes a little , but had been going more since it reopened until the recent lockdown .

>Make sure you think about where best to place your pad for where you think you might land. Always have a little look for the way down to make sure it’s ok. 

Will do .

TWS

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 gravy 17 Nov 2020
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

The Roaches have lots of nice problems.

Curbar has a nice friendly circuit or two.

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In reply to The Wild Scallion:

If I’m in Derby, one of the places I stop off at on the way home is Harborough Rocks. If you follow the path up, but turn off right just below the crag, you’ll find a lower tier which is not too high and great for easy problems above grassy flat landings. If you’re a refugee from ‘80s eliminate bouldering like me, you can make up some not so easy problems.

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In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

> If I’m in Derby, one of the places I stop off at on the way home is Harborough Rocks. If you follow the path up, but turn off right just below the crag, you’ll find a lower tier which is not too high and great for easy problems above grassy flat landings. If you’re a refugee from ‘80s eliminate bouldering like me, you can make up some not so easy problems.

Cheers for that.

I'll take a look . 

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 Offwidth 18 Nov 2020
In reply to The Wild Scallion:

I'd confirm Harbourogh lower right tier is a good venue but needs a dry day after rain or a sunny day in winter months. Lots of easier warm ups and solos there as well that don't make the bouldering guides.

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