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Beta Advice

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 Ggilbs 06 Feb 2021

So I’m fairly new to bouldering, around a year ago now. I have managed to do a few problems of different levels and outdoors am now around the V4 level.

As stupid as this may sound, I have guidebooks which explain vaguely problems but when on more technical problems how are you meant to work out beta? As there could be several ways to for example top out on problems using the basic instruction but how do you know without being told, If your beta is correct for the problem? Like are all problems beta specific? 
 

Thanks in advance. My apologies if this sounds stupid 🤦🏼‍♂️Ha. 

 Cobra_Head 06 Feb 2021
In reply to Ggilbs:

There's no set way to climb or top out, the only "rules" are where it starts and where it finishes, the rest is up to you.

1
In reply to Ggilbs:

In theory the grade is for the easiest way of doing it. So if you’ve climbed a V4, for example, there shouldn’t be any way of doing it that reduces or invalidates the grade (excluding obvious cheating). Of course it’s very possible to use iffy beta that makes it harder than it should/could be, but with time you’ll get better at finding the optimal beta. Figuring out the best sequence is half the fun!

So don’t worry about the “correct” beta - if you got up it you can claim the tick. Although it can be interesting trying to refine the beta you used, even if you ticked the problem, as a way of practicing finding better sequences. 

 afx22 06 Feb 2021
In reply to Ggilbs:

Some problems have specific starting holds, or are sit starts.  Some may have holds that are not ‘in’.  If this is the case , it’ll be stated in the guides.

Sit starts can be really common at some venues.  Some people will bend the rules a little but I like to make sure my butt is on the mat.  Some problems can be many grades easier if you cheat those sit starts.


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