UKC

Hi all, I’m looking to learn to jam, so was thinking of searching out boulder problems that require it - in Yorkshire and the Peak.  Easier grades would probably be best, maybe a little harder if the crux isn’t a jam!

Does anyone have any suggestions for suitable problems?

Thanks in advance.

3 to get you started:

Definitive 5.12 (f6C)

Look at Me! (f6B)

Melvyn Bragg (f7B)

And another bunch! All are pretty reasonable except Butterfly Crack, which is nails.

The Kursk (f6C)

Velvet Roof (f5+)

Right-Hand Roof (f6B)

Butterfly Crack (f6C)

Edit - just seen it's to learn how to jam. Think they'd still be OK, maybe BC a bit tough, but you're right by the ground anyway! Bring your tape.

Yosemite Whites (f7A+) at stanage plantation has some good jamming and is pretty lowball, so you can try moves easily.

Zippatrocity (f7B+) is also good jamming, though make sure you've got some gloves. You can do the last half of it for a nice problem that's around 6B+ (it's linking the start in that makes it pumpy and hard).

Just walk along any crag and try out the starts of cracks you like the look of. No need to top out, just downclimb (more excellent jamming practice!). That's how I learned in the days before bouldering was big. Don't forget limestone either - it's not just crimpy holds. And also don't ignore jamming along breaks. Bob Marley had a word or two to say about jamming ...

You could do laps on Dog Leg Crack at Curbar

Thanks. Definitive 5.12 is a good one.  I’ve been looking at that for years but keep walking away.

I’ve done Look At Me and it was brilliant and unique.  I didn’t jam though.  Lots of pressing with my face!

7B is beyond my ability 

Ha!  I wish I was that good.  I was thinking more F5

I wouldn't do yourself down...those problems are both pretty traversey so it's easy to try moves and sequences from the ground, great for getting your jamming eye in.

I'm a fan of crack boulders and have done a few, these are what I can think of off the top of my head but if I think of anymore / check my log later on I'll be sure to post.

Couple of lower grade hand / fist size, although only couple of moves:

Slanting Crack (f5+)

Straight Crack (f5)

Couple of more graunchy offwidths:

Steve Clark (f5+)

Boffwidth (f6B)

Savage Me Softly (f7A)

Also, it is easy but I love doing laps on Dog-Leg Crack (HVD 4a) so another vote for that

Just remembered the ticklists on here, so here's a couple of links that should keep us both busy:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2833

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1321

Corpse Start (V1) is good thin hands (it's the purest straight-up bouldering crack I can think of), although I'm not sure how advisable heading there at the moment is (although in fairness it can't get more banned)

Harland Globetrotter (f6A), Leggit (f6A+), Youngster's Wall (f7A). All of these are thin cracks - Harland Globetrotter has solid locks that make the whole thing much easier, and on the other two mono jams are useful.

As others have said, lapping Dog-Leg Crack (HVD 4a) is good - it's one of the few easy jamming cracks on grit that is significantly harder if you try and layback it.

String Theory (f7A) Obscure and I've not been on it, but supposedly one of the best roof cracks in the Peak.

You might be surprised. It's just HVS skills but upside down! A very different muscle set to most other problems. You wouldn't be the first to skip a few grades by learning a new skill. 

Apparently I’ve done the first three - but I’ll have done them without jamming.  I’ll add the others to my list - cheers.

Aha.  I recognise that climb from videos where Pete Whittaker too Shauna and (later) Magnus Mitbo there.  It does look like fun!

Thanks for the suggestions.  String Theory looks immense.

That seconds list looks especially good.  Thanks.

Thanks for that.  As it happens, I’ve been meaning get back to the Velvet Roof area - it was too wet to climb last time I tried, back in the winter.  Cheers.

That looks good but not sure I’d want to fall 6m onto a slopey landing.  Maybe once I get the hang of jamming, maybe.

There's probably more than these two at Brimham 

Fisty Sloth (f6B+)

Born Again (f7A+)

There’s some excellent jamming cracks at  Shipley Glen, and a whole plethora of ‘normal’ bouldering to give the skin a bit of a rest between cracks Kestrel Crack, Why Crack, Straight Crack and Jamming Crack.

That’s a great suggestion - thanks.  I’ve done a couple of those already (without jamming) but there will be plenty for me to go at there, cheers.