UKC

I'm going to the peak district for the first time at the end of the month. We're staying near Froggatt. We have 4 days including travel of about 4 hours each way. Previously I've climbed on southern sandstone and indoors. I've been climbing for about 2 years and have climbed V5 outdoors but feel like I could do better. I hope to get to Curbar, Stanage plantation and possibly Burbage as well. I have the peak district bouldering guide.
Does anyone have any suggestions for the best locations for bouldering and good problems to try (Font 6A to 7A) that I shouldn't miss on my first trip?

In reply to Juggler13:
Cratcliffe and/or Robin Hood's Stride is probably the most obvious choice - wonderful place.

Hope you're lucky with the weather, otherwise the Climbing Works might be the venue that's missing off your list.

In reply to deepsoup: Thanks. That was going to be another question. Is there anywhere outside that stays dry in wet weather?

In reply to Juggler13:

curbar: gorilla warfare goes at v6 which is pretty good. Possible to extend it slightly if you get on well with it and it goes at v8. Trackside is v6 which is also very good. Theres a good few other problems on the trackside boulder. Bad landing roof is a bit of one move wonder v6 which is alsi pretty good if your flexible.

Stanage: plantation has loads to go at. Green traverse weighs in @ v6 and can be extended to give a v7. Theres loads to work on up to v10 if you wanted to try some harder stuff.

Froggatt: has some really good problems if you seek them out! I did jetpack a couple of weeks ago which goes at steady v6. Can be done sligtly differently to give an awesome v8 dyno. Loads of other good problems there but didn't get to try much as i retreated to avoid midges!

Check out peakbouldering.info really good website and has a list of all the current problems and their grades.

In reply to Juggler13: If you've never been to the Peak, Stanage Plantation is a must, but do be prepared for not entirely user-friendly stuff. Quite a lot of the better stuff is high and some has bad landings.

My recommendations there would be:

- Crescent Arete (5+), essential highball. Good on the other side too at about 6b
- Not To Be Taken Away (6 something), essential highball
- Green Traverse (7a). It's boring, but it's a classic traverse for climbing wall monkeys.
- The wrong end of the Pebble. Scary wall, 6b. Pebble Arete (5/low 6 depending how) is also good and very classic.
- Glass Hour. Scary arete, soft 7a

Personally, I think Curbar's not very good. If you're struggling to get a 7a tick, call in and get Trackside, it's actually 6b+. Or spend ages in a muddy hole under an overhang on Gorilla Warfare, especially fun when it's busy.

I really like Robin Hood's Stride and Cratcliffe. Loads to do:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=423797&v=1#x6015237

Burbage South boulders provide lots of easy, slabby problems on low boulders with good (but probably wet) landings. Boring, you might say, but ever so friendly. Burbage North on the other hand has great micro-routes, especially:

Nicotine Stain (6b) - brilliant technical slab/wall/crack
Banana Finger (6a) and Direct (6c). Unpleasant but classic.
Remergence (6b) sandbag, unpleasant, but clasic.
Safe Bet (6b, not 6c) - brilliant balancy arete
All Quiet (6a+) - brilliant highball wall

Burbage West is hardcore.

That should be plenty.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Also consider the Roaches as a venue (often dry when the eastern edges are wet) plenty of great bouldering, and near ramshaw, new stones and baldstones which all have some good problems...

Enjoy!

In reply to balmybaldwin: Plus Churnet, which is much lower than most of the edges, and has some roofs to keep parts dry.

To the OP, if this is your first time on grit and you have 4 days in a row, I would recommend you are selective with what you try and don't throw yourself at everything with (w)reckless abandon, or else you will be guaranteed to be through your skin on day one.

Pace yourself, have a look about, take pics, have a drink, do some slabby stuff, don't go mental.

Unless the forecast looks dubious, then trash yourself in the windows you get.

Hey,
I'm planning a bouldering only trip with some mates to the peak discrict for a weekend in october. None of us can drive so we're looking for some cheap accomodation near stanage plantation whether it be a hostel/campground/b&b. Was wondering if you guys had some good suggestions?

In reply to Juggler13:

Rubicon's Kudos wall has some good problems which are dry in even the most persistent rain, don't think there's much below Font 7a except A Millers Tale though.

Raven Tor also has stuff thats dry in the rain such as the excellent Out of My Tree start though most of the real problems are Font 7b and above!

In reply to AdamClimber:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/listings/info.php?id=2&t=stay

In reply to Jon Stewart: Thanks to everyone for your help. There's so much to choose from and this will help narrow it down a bit. I'm going to note down some of those must-do problems.

In reply to NJSharp: Millers Tale is somewhat polished but promotes precise footwork if you enjoy it there is always Stoney ... perhaps an acquired taste!

I just got back from my first bouldering trip to the Peak. I had a great time despite the weather. We were lucky to have good weather on Saturday and so went to Cratcliffe and Robin Hood's Stride and had a great time. Almost did my first 7A in the cave (next time). Yesterday we went to the climbing works because of the rain. It was good but I thought the grading could be made clearer and most of the holds were dirty and polished. We also had a look at some classic problems at Curbar and Stanage Plantation and visited Stoney Middleton. Hope to get back there sometime next year.