UKC

PIP synovitis

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 Gyrsaker 03 Jul 2023

Hi, just looking for some advice - I've had proximal interphalangeal synovitis diagnosed by a physio around 4-5 months ago (and had it for a few months before that). Wondering what type of climbing would be recommended to start climbing again as it's starting to feel a bit better (it is not 100% but I'd say is 80% better). The physio mentioned jugs are bad!

My main prescribed exercise was doing holding dumbbells up from the floor with a fingerboard type thing fairly religiously.

 Andrew Wells 03 Jul 2023
In reply to Gyrsaker:

I am not a physio but I'd say start by taking it easy on some stuff with nice ergonomic edges and pinches, and take jugs conservatively with the injured hand, holding them by just the top bit etc 

 mark20 03 Jul 2023

I’ve had this on and off for over a year now. I know others who’ve had it for many years longer than that. 
The stiffness and swelling varies but I don’t feel particularly tweaky or weak on it, so after an initial rest period like you, I’m quite happy to train and climb as close to normal as possible. If the choice is resting for 5 months every time it flairs up, or constantly climbing and managing it, I know which I’ll choose.  Also I feel way less tweaky when I’m doing lots of steady loading eg good form on a fingerboard. I think mine stems from a tightness in back of hand/wrist/arm which forces a bad angle on my finger joints on my right arm, over loading the middle finger PIP. So im trying exercises to address this. Mainly range of movement, tendon flossing, stretching and massaging, as well as various dumbbell curls. 
not sure about the jugs thing, small edge max hangs seem the aggravating factor for me. I’d say start building it up. The only thing I’ve really stopped is hard crimpy bouldering , and instead focussing more on route climbing. 
 

 Ned 06 Jul 2023
In reply to Gyrsaker:

I've had the same thing the past six months or so, and recently went to a climbing physio. He gave exercises to strengthen it by doing a mono lift in an open hand and lots of lumbrical exercises. He said climbing is fine if I avoid crimping and dynos on the hand affected. Just really make sure to avoid anything that hyperextends the pip joint (like full crimping). And warm up well and keep it warm.


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