UKC

Hiya!

TL;DR - Breaking in new Skoda Roomster, driving past Western Grit, need advice for 1 pad up to f6a+ bouldering for one day. Forecast is dry and 8C (for now). Is the Roaches Skyline our best bet?

My partner and I are excited to pick up our new weekend warrior vehicle, a Skoda Roomster, near Blackpool, next Tuesday. We'll start our drive back South that evening, but we have a day to spare. So, I had the idea of testing out our new weekend home straight away, and the Peak District is conveniently located for us.

We only have 1 bouldering pad, and we're just getting back into shape. I think we'd be comfortable up to f6a, f6a+ and f6b might be fun to try with low expectations. We're looking mainly for technical or balancey problems, but a few big move/muscley probelm won't hurt. We're just still getting back in shape, and my shoulder is still strengthening.

Based on my research, it seems like the Roaches, specifically Skyline, might be our best bet.

We'd also welcome company! I'm a photographer, so it would be good to have another around to spot so I can more confidently get some photos.

Oh, and, feel free to lmk any good spots to park up for the night (or DM me if you don't want to post it publicly).

The Roaches sounds like the best shout.

Joe's Arête (Brown's Arete) (f6A) is a classic balancey problem, I'd also recommend Wildy's Right (f6A). For easier stuff there are plenty of slabs nearby - some of which can be very thin indeed, and there's also the ever popular Three Pocket Slab (f6A) (which I see is on your ticklist!), though it may feel a bit spicy with one pad if you're not very confident and balancey rockovers. I'm sure there'll be others about who would throw a spare pad down if push comes to shove, anyway.

If you don't mind a potentially wet pad and fancy something a bit tougher then Staffordshire Flyer (f6B) is great fun!

Thanks a ton! Those look fun. We often bring a tarp with us as the pad often goes on the seats, so we try to not get it tooooo dirty, but it comes with the territory.

Hoping it is a little busy, but not too much, so we can chat up other climbers and what not.

And we're getting an extra day in, gonna stay for Thursday as well. Weather is looking even nicer than last I'd checked too.

Roaches area inc. Skyline, Upper, Ramshaw and Newstones all got quality.
Otherwise Wimberry, or if you don’t mind too long a walk (30 mins but makes up for the easy accessibility from the motorway) then Blackstone Edge. 

Thanks for seconding the above.

we’ll be without a guide book, and so just rockin up to boulders and having a look. I suspect we’ll decide where to go while in the car on the day, as per usual. 

At popular crags like The Roaches and Ramshaw, you'll be fine without the guidebook just using the logbooks on here 

Or the chalk marks.

Why would 8 people dislike this post?

Surely it's time to see who likes and dislikes posts. 

Just speculating here but might be to do with the parking up for the night. Because of the van life problems since Covid, some people may be anti any mentions of this (but IMO instead of disliking they should respond to ensure the OP understands their concerns).

Leek locals don’t like offcomers, maybe?

No problem with offcomers.  We use their ground up bones for climbing chalk.

This is the way. 

Meh. I’m not fussed. People are welcome to dislike. We’re doing our best to be considerate, conscious and conscientious. We need a vehicle. We can either drive for nigh on 10 hours, or stay over. We bring our own food and water. We practice Leave No Trace. We get tested multiple times per week and were tested Monday. We want to live with confidence and spite fear. We want to climb. Outdoors.