UKC

Since I recently enjoyed this lovely 'circuit', with at least half the problems done on my own, I thought I'd share it and maybe get some feedback before its uploaded to "Offwidth" (after I've got the new stanage guide changes in).

Woods link:

http://www.eee.ntu.ac.uk/offwidth/wharncliffe_woods.html

Upper Tier Bouldering Wharncliffe - Steve Clark (with thanks to Lynn Robinson and Simon Triger)

A collection of mainly unlisted problems on the right side of the Upper Tier at Wharncliffe. The majority are below V0 but there is plenty of harder bouldering hereabouts left to the more talented to rediscover. The problems are rarely climbed and are situated in a pleasant woodland setting so can be a little green and dirty. Some are also decidedly highball and hence are given route grades. The route names in bold are listed in the 2006 Burbage ‘Infinity’ guide.

Boulder problems are given our ‘U grades’ or V grades. Assuming for short problems V1~ 5c; V0~5b; U9~5a; U8~4c; U7~4b etc. Sustained or highball problems gain a notch or two.

Finding the buttresses can be occasionally difficult so the following gives the distances between some main landmarks. Heading south from Long Johns Stride after 80m the path forks, the smaller upper path goes to the Upper Tier. This path is winding and can be overgrown, following the line of a dry stone wall for much of its length. From the fork it is 350m to an old integral stepped stile in the dry stone wall (no longer useable: this is incorrectly stated as being 150m from the fork in the ‘89 guide). Puttrell and Watson’s route is below. About 100m further are a series of low blocks in the path; down to the right is the start of the main climbing on the Central Section Upper Tier; the bouldering starts on the far right of this section. 200m further the dry stone wall is built over a low rock (above Secret Buttress). 100m further on is a dog-leg in the dry stone wall, with a new metal footpath gate. A parking areas a few hundred metres north of Chase Lodge on the Woodhead road can be used to access the gate (at the dog-leg) above the Upper Tier via a bridleway and a winding grass track across the Chase (20 minutes).

Starting at the right of the Central section of the Upper Tier, just right of the unprotected weirdness of the E2 5b, Just a Little Bit, with its prominent low angled upper slab above a wide break:

155c A Little Less HVS 5a {V1 5a**}
A variation on Just a Little Bit, stepping right to mantle the ledge, is a grade easier and significantly less serious. No runners unless you lasso the tree.
156 Rainbow Crack D [D] at least VD 3c {U6 3c*}
The undercut corner crack to the right gives a short section of interesting jamming.
156a Rainbow Wall VS 4c {U9 4c**}
Climb the block right of the corner and awkwardly gain the huge break. Undercut powerfully up to good holds and glory. Unprotected.

15m right are the next climbs which make a nice collection but can get green because of the tree:

156d Occasional Arete D 3c {U5 3c*}
The right side of the arete left of Corner Climb is pleasant after a hard start.
156e Corner Climb VD [S] possible HD 3b {U5 3b}
The corner behind the birch is interesting but rather dirty, much harder if damp.
156f Neither Nor VS 4c* {V0 4c}
The eliminate wall directly behind the tree is surprisingly good: via a pocket, green lips and a crux finish using a small sidepull.
156g Crack and Wall [S] possible S 4a {U8 4a}
Climb the wide crack and reachy wall above on good holds to a rather precarious finish.
156h Trouser Browser HS 4a possible VS 4c {V0 4c}
Pockets right of the crack lead to the upper arete which is reachy, serious and with slightly suspect protection (the break is loose). Trouser filler might be more apt!
156i Fizz VS 4b at least VS 4c {V0 4c*}
The shorter side-wall needs some of its name for success. Reachy and with the same suspect protection. High in both grades.
156j Fizzle VD 3c {U6 3c}
The crack just right started from its right. The complex corner right again is a wide bridging U6 3c but involves a bit too much jungle bashing.
156k Fizzer S 4b {U8 4b*}
2m right of the corner the luminous green wall gives a surprisingly good problem from a hard start. The direct top-out is sloping so trend left to finish.

To the right the wall is vegetated and a little suspect in places, 10m right is a cleaner prominent rib (with a tight triangular through route behind):

U9 4b The left arete of the rib is reluctant to give up its easiest sequence.
U8 4a* The middle of the wall, with comfortable moves on sharp jugs, suddenly ends at slopers causing a quick reappraisal.

In reply to Offwidth:

The second part:

Across a descent bay is Even Chance Buttress with its large central overhang and a holly tree high on its right (a useful landmark). On its right is an unlisted line:

157a Even More Chances HS 4b {U9 4b*}
The right arete of the buttress taking the overhang on the right with a crux move onto the slab above. Finishes more easily.

5m right are twin birch trees in front of a pocketed wall:

U5 3a The left arete is fairly easy to a crux finish.
U8 5a* The wall just right: start off small crimps (no jumps, no arete, no tree) and gain pockets and breaks which are good to the top.
U9 4b The right arete on its left side is a bit precarious high up.
U9 4c* 6m right is a narrowing rib: this starts up the right arete and pulls left onto the face for an easier finish.
U8 4c The slabby facet on the right of the same arete started from crimps.

10m right again is the obvious sharp arete of Chancer, with a scrambling descent corner on its left:

U7 4a 2m right of the corner this problem climbs up the right side of the prominent niche.
157z S {U8 4a} 1m right the reachy wall on good lips and pockets.
158 Chancer VS 4c possible HS 4b {U9 4c**}
The arete on its left is a delightful problem.
U8 4b The arete on its right starting from a block. Harder and more sustained from below and left {U9 4c}.
158b D possible HD 4a {U6}
The crack to the right of the arete has a traditionally hard start. D 3a stepping in from the ledge on the right.
V0 5b* The wall just right of the crack is very fingery and technical (no arete holds).
U9 5a* The same wall using the right arete is only just easier.
U7 4b* Across to the right passing heather climb the wall 1.5m left of its right arete on good holds.
U9 4c* The right arete on its left.

90m right of Chancer (it feels more than twice this distance if you navigate the obstacle course along the base of the crag) is the Secret Buttress area which is well worth a visit. This is a higher section of crag with a band of overhanging capping blocks. Directly above this is where the dry stone wall is built over a low boulder (the easiest descent is on the far right):

158m Crotchless Ron Hills S 4b {U9 4b}
The cracked groove up the middle of the left buttress is climbed on good holds with good protection over a crux overlap.

10 right is the next climb:

158n Heather Mills VD 3c {U7 3c}
On the middle buttress climb the wide jamming crack and wall above.
V0 5a The arete just right on its left.
U6 3c The recess right of the arete has several variations.
U8 4c* The rib front immediately right, from a hard start.

5m right is the main event:

158o Secret Buttress E1 5b* {V2 5b*}
The direct line on the right hand buttress. A technical lower wall leads to a break (runners advised and care with a friable flake). Pull up a tricky groove on sloping holds to a ledge and take the fun overhang above directly.
V0 5b* the arete on its left to the right to join the next route.
158p Don’t Tell HS 4c {U9 4c}
The cracked right arete of the buttress has a boulder problem start from stepping off the block.
V1 5c The groove on the right of the arete from the ground with help from a sneaky sidepull on the left.

90m right again is the last sizable buttress with a prominent capping overhang; it has a good path down its left side. This lies almost directly below the gate at the dog-leg of the wall:

U7 4b* 10m left of the descent is a flame shaped slab. Step delicately up this with no arete holds for hands (a U5 3c cop-out with these).
U6 4a 5m left of the descent is a green slab. Star at the bottom and climb it trending slightly left to retain interest.
U8 4b** Climb the slabby rib on the side of the buttress to jugs and stretch right to pull over the narrowest point of the roof at a niche (good harder roof problems just left).
158t Capped Buttress Direct S 4b {U9 4b}
Start at the left arete of the front face and pull right to gain ledges and finish direct (take care with some potentially friable flakes).
U8 4a 3m right climb the arete and wide crack above: better than it looks.
U7 4a 3m right again is a green slab with a central crack. Climb the right side of the slab with help from the crack.
V0 5a The middle of the right of the slab with no crack or arete holds.
U8 4b The right arete of the slab.

In reply to Offwidth:

I should add this area is in very good nick at the moment. Most lines were climbed without any prior inspection and only a few needed cleaning. Conditions stay good in most seasons. Its low altitude compared to most peak crags and sheltered in winter (Ive climbed routes just left in short sleeves with snow on the ground ) and in summer the trees give welcome shade; the bracken can be a pain but there are bilberries as a recompense.