In reply to philluu:
Basically yes, access is fine as long as you don't make an absurd racket and/or leave litter at the crag. In all my time climbing there I have never been asked to leave.
Access wise, don't park in the turning bay. Rather park on the side of the road 20m or so away, it should be obvious where. To access the boulders, walk up the forestry track for a hundred meters ish, for the Darkside boulder, take a right back up a muddy track and round left when the track ends, scramble up the hill for a few minutes and you should see the boulder. From here there are obvious tracks where you can easily access the satellite (a little further up), the cube and the splasher. If you take the track from the cube going away from the boulders you will come upon the best problems in the area on the rift, bread pudding and sliced slug, with bivi buttress slightly up the hill from the slug. However this track is likely to be overwhelmed by brambles at this time of year, which kind of cuts the area in two. With this is mind, for these boulders, instead of taking the muddy track off the forestry track, you should carry on for another hundred meters and scramble up the obvious earthy slope into the forest on the right, this path will lead directly to the rift and bread pudding, from which slug and bivi can be easily accessed.
Like I say, brambles can be an issue during the summer, but only on the paths, the landings are all good and in clearings.
Just as an addition, there are some total classics at many grades which are definitely worth a try:
Ames Games/Golden Bicep - Sit Start (f6C+) - 6C+
Bread Pudding (f5+) - 5+ with a high topout, feels ridiculous until you find the sequence
Bowl Rim (f6A) - 6A again with a slightly high topout, quality knacky arete
Any flake variation on the slug works well too, or any of the traverses.
Hope this helps!
Arthur
