UKC

Changes to Southern Sandstone bolted anchors

Hi All,

Please see BMC update below regarding changes to the bolted anchors at Harrisons, Stone Farm and Bulls Hollow.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/changes-to-southern-sandstone-bolted-anchors

Best Regards

Adrian

Harrisons Rocks Management Group

 spenser 24 Sep 2021
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

Surely this has been good practice for years anyway? 

 Hooo 24 Sep 2021
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

Thanks for posting this. I think this is going to catch a few people out when they next visit SS, so the more publicity the better.

In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

Is there details on what testing lead to this decision?

Some of the communication seems to stem around the practise of equalisation and I wonder if it is just this that lead to the decision or did the DMM testing reveal that the second bolt connected by the wire was useless? 

 Kevster 24 Sep 2021
In reply to Joffy:

Is it the 2nd bolt that's the question? I assume the first bolt doesn't fail that often.....

Anyway, don't we all build equalised multipoint belays elsewhere for just about everything?

Best practice being revised. 

In reply to Joffy:

As you say, and as mentioned in the link,  it's not possible to tension the previous institu wire sufficiently meaning that in the event of a failure,  the wire and the second bolt would be shock loaded.  We looked at alternative methods for an institu connection but for the time being,  climbers must rig their own setup to equalise the load on the bolts.

This was driven by a ongoing programme of maintenance and review. All the Best

In reply to Kevster:

For sure, but the top rope situation changes things and presumably absorbs any shock. I just wondered if there was something alarming which prompted the change, I believe it said after 30 years! 

Thanks for the info, definitely an interesting situation and I'm sure I'm not the only one who loves to geek out on the details haha.


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