North Wales Limestone Access Updates July 2021

North Wales Limestone Access Updates July 2021

Craig Ty Newydd 

Located on private land with no right of public access, there is currently no access for climbing until further notice as the pheasant breeders have renewed their lease on the land and are actively using the site again.  Negotiations underway to see if access for climbing can be agreed with the landowners and the leaseholders. 

Upper Pen Trwyn 

The summer holiday time restrictions, imposed for safety reasons due to volume of people using the Marine Drive,  are now in place. Climbing on the cliffs above the Marine Drive  (including Mayfair Wall all the way around to "End of the Road") is only allowed after 6pm until Sept 8th.  The bouldering at Parisellasa and climbing on Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas are allowed as they are not directly above the Marine Drive. 

Diamond - Little Orme

Due to late nesting birds (kittewakes), a reminder that the agreed restriction here is in place until August 15th. This will be reviewed at the end of July, based on results of a site visit by BMC/Natural Resources Wales. 

Castell y Gwynt

The restriction remains here until the end of July unless we get an opportunity to review before then. (continuing furlough and covid arrangments are severely restricting opportunities for site meetings). 

Elsewhere, the Chough Restrictions at Hornby crags, Testament Area and Lower St Tudnos have now all been lifted. 

As with all crag access issues - keep an eye on the BMC Regional Access Database for the latest information. 


Elfyn Jones

BMC Access & Conservation Offcier (Wales)

Loading Notifications...