Algarve Climbing information please

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 John sealey 11 Sep 2016

does anyone have any recent information about climbing on the Algarve ?

We are flying to Faro and want a grab a few days in either Sagres, or Reinta ....

Is there a guide? or any tips please.

 andyr 12 Sep 2016
In reply to jon22:

Head for the Dromidario café in Sagres and ask to see the climbing topo book. Are you looking for sport (what grades) or trad.

OP John sealey 12 Sep 2016
In reply to andyr:

Hi Andy, just going take sport kit, grade 6a to 6c. is the trad any good?? anymore info would be great...
In reply to jon22:

DWS at both Ingrina and Sagres are worth checking out; Ingrina is easy access and some friendly grades; Sagres is more adventurous. Rockfax DWS.
There is also Rocha de Pena inland from Faro.
 nniff 12 Sep 2016
In reply to jon22:
Closest to Faro there is Rocha da Pena. Nice little crag - all you need to find it and climb on it can be found on the crag info page on UKC. Jingo Wobbly guide is pointless for this crag - the on-line topo is more than enough.

Ingrina is nice if falling into water is your thing. Good for families as the beach has a restaurant and the crag is about 10-15 minutes walk west from there. In the DWS book

Sagres - last I knew, the new routes book /guide was held at the Dromedario cafe in Sagres. Take a camera and photograph the pages. Pay particular attention to the crag location diagrams as it is the most confusing place in the world. A compass wouldn't be a bad idea so that you know which way you're facing. The Mirror is outstanding. When the waves are big there , they are huge. All the Jingo Wobbly guide says is that there is climbing here. No help at all. Some trad here - at the braver end of the spectrum. Mostly equipped by the guy who runs/ran the Mile End wall.

A lot of Sagres is abseil approach. Fishermen have priority - that's just the way it is. Fishing line and hooks are an unusual objectve danger.
Post edited at 15:42
 andyr 12 Sep 2016
Here are some co-ordinates for Google Maps. Copy and paste the numbers.

Sector Baleera

20+ bolted routes 25-30m 5+ to 7b mainly 5+ to mid 6's. Abseil into good ledges. Closely spaced bolts.

The Garden

5 bolted routes 30m 3+ to 4+ Abseil to good ledges. Separate abseil rope useful as pulled ropes tend to hang up on blocks and flakes.

Navigator slab

3 bolted routes 5+ to 6a 40m Abseil to good ledge or down climb (abseil bolts)and scramble in from 37.001582,-8.931474 mid to low tide.

Beliche beach

2 bolted routes both two pitches 6b to 7a. 27m X 2 abseils to good ledges.

Parete Riscas

11 routes 6b to 7a+ 30m Abseil to good ledges. Rock is much better than it looks.

Sector Corgas

20 routes 6a to 8c mainly 7 and 8's steeply OHing. Abseil in from anchors above, or abb/scramble in from fishermans path 100m further south towards the headland

The Furnace

A dozen bolted lines within this area 4+ to 8a Walk in access

White Slab

4 bolted routes 5 to 7a Abseil to good ledges 45m or 2 X 25m


2 bolted routes 6b to 7a Abseil to good ledge in the sea 2 X 30m

The Mirror

4 bolted routes 6a to 7a Abseil to good ledge 45m or 2 X 30; or 45m to 3 bolt hanging stance

Armação Nova

20+ bolted routes in various states. 10m to 70m. Mainly walk in with wade at low tide or abseil for Parete Grande at far end.

Roca de Pena is small and only worth a visit if the sea cliffs are out.

Lots of very good trad, think Pembroke with 800+ routes. The sports climbing sectors will give you good views along the cliffs. There's topos for a couple of hundred routes in the Drom. After that I got bored with thinking of names.
 nniff 12 Sep 2016
In reply to andyr:

That's progress for you! No more stumbling around that lunatic landscape trying to identify crags from the top! Many thanks for all your work - much appreciated, but sadly I'be not been for a while.
OP John sealey 12 Sep 2016
In reply to andyr:

Cheers guys
OP John sealey 12 Sep 2016
In reply to andyr:

V v useful thanks
Bentley2710 27 Sep 2016
In reply to jon22:


I'm currently in the algarve and am thinking about heading down to ingrina tomorrow to try a bit of deep water soloing. I've never done it before, just go bouldering indoors a few times a week. V2-3s mostly.

Is ingrina a good place to have a first go at dws? Any tips would be gravely appreciated.

 andyr 27 Sep 2016
In reply to Bentley2710:

Obviously one should recommend that you don't DWS on your own. A bad fall can leave you in a difficult situation. However; lots of people do. Ingrinas a nice place and it's easy to chose your spot. I usually take one of the cheap double lilos and have it floating in the water. Means if I need some quick floatation its readily to hand.
Bentley2710 28 Sep 2016
In reply to jon22:

Went down today, found a spot with a great view of the main cave but it was really choppy so decided against it. Such a shame. It looked like a really nice spot.

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