UKC

We, two, are in the early stages of planning: New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia, early March to mid April (six weeks) next year. We will fly into (and out of) Melbourne or Sydney and rent a car. Blue Mountains, Buffalo, Arapiles, Moonarie…  We’re trying to optimise the circuit (if that’s what it will be). Suggestions for other venues en route would also be very welcome.

Booroomba, Bungonia, Point Perpendicular and Nowra are all worth considering between Melbourne and Sydney. Of those, Booroomba is similar to Buffalo (granite) and Nowra is good quality single pitch sandstone of which there is also plenty in the Blue Mountains. Point Perp is sea cliffs, which would be a bit different. Bungonia is a big limestone gorge unlike just about anything else in Australia and is very close to the main highway between Melbourne and Sydney.

I don't have too much to add other than envy! I've had two 6 week trips to Oz, one to the Blueys and one to the Gramps. I thought they both had some of the best climbing I've done anywhere 

I think I heard something about access issues at Point Perp. It’s a military firing range, so climbing is/was allowed on the weekend, but that might have changed recently. 

There’s also the Grampians (and hour or so East of Mt Arapiles), but you’ll want to check into which crags are currently allowed to be climbed on. 
 

Re: Blue Mountains vs Nowra - both are sandstone, but the Blue Mountains offers more vertical face climbing, whereas Nowra offers more overhangs and roof climbing. 

One small option is Mittagong - it’s about 1.5 hours SW of Sydney, so is on the way to Melbourne. Not a huge amount there, but there’s an awesome roof there around 7b if thats your thing. Local pub at Bowral used to serve great food (though my information is 9 years old now).

Not en route, but Tasmania is definitely worth visiting too. You can get a ferry from Melbourne either with your hire car, or hire another one on the island. The climbing there is much more adventurous than you'll find at Arapiles or the Blue Mountains (those are the only other places I've climbed down there so all I have for comparison). Loads of stuff to do ranging from seaside single pitch to longer things in the mountains. There was a good destination guide to Tassie published on UKC a while back which inspired me to go when I visited Australia several years ago, and I'm very glad I did!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/tasmania_-_the_totem_pole+...

Access to point perp is now resolved thanks to all the different communities clubbing together (unusual!), but as you state only access on the weekend.

Booroombra is proper old-school run out slab climbing. Some really good exposed climbing with fantastic views. But definitely not on par with some of the other places that are listed.

Last year I spent 14 days at araps, was amazed to discover we were the shortest term inhabitants of the campsite. Everyone else was there for months!

You’re going to have such a great trip!

Booroomba is one of my favourite places, but it has access challenges and indeed can be difficult to find. They’ve had major fires which has affected routes and bolts. It can be murderously hot and humid. Facebook has a Canberra Climbing site, I’d recommend you join, people will be very helpful if they can.

Water, between 2 of us. We carried 2 litres each and retreated at midday as we’d used it all on more than one occasion.

I’ve had a few days at Nowra, this is short pitched sandstone.

For the Gramps, this is the link

http://www.chockstone.org/forum/forum.asp
 

I’ve been to the Bluies many times and never managed to climb because of the rain!

I’m sure you know already how expensive things are and check the t’s and c’s for car rental. Most in Australia have a charge by the kilometre and in Australia there are a lot of those.

Blue Mountains and Arapiles are fantastic. The Grampians has so many restrictions now for Climbing that I am not sure is worth it to consider for climbing. Worth it for a visit nonetheless.

If you are renting a car be aware that usually there are restrictions in taking the car outside the districts. Also you cannot take a rented car in the ferry to Tasmania. 

Have fun. Australia is brilliant!!

All those areas you mention are fantastic for their own reasons.But if you are a trad climber Moonarie is unique.Brilliant routes set in a desert wilderness.Ring fence a 7 day trip there if you can.Unforgettable.

You won’t mind me saying this, but your profile shows you are only climbing modest grades. My experience, which is somewhat limited, is that at those kind of grades Arapiles will probably give you the most memorable climbing of your trip. I don’t think there’s anywhere to compare with it, certainly nowhere that I’ve been. I’ve done over 50 routes there and even many of those getting zero stars would be sought-after routes if they were transported to UK.

You might find a couple of my tick lists of interest, and there’s an article on here about Lamplighter. 
 

In the Blue Mts. Mount Piddington is good for easier routes and Mt York has The Obituary.

One last bit of advice. If you do opt for the remoter areas. Invest in a Sat phone and keep it charged. 

Yes, Djurite/Arapiles has the greatest concentration of high quality climbs at all grades of anywhere in Australia, and quite possibly the world.

You (Robin) will find plenty to go at in the Blue Mountains simply by virtue of the number of climbs, but good routes in the lower grades are fewer and further between. The Crag website is an excellent resource for researching possibilities - e.g. https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/routes/with-st...

Sweet Dreams is an atmospheric and exposed classic - don't try it on a weekend. If you are feeling fit and confident (and your partner likewise) Bunny Bucket Buttress is an absolutely mega big day out - best to climb some other routes at Pierce's Pass beforehand so you can scope out the walk in and abseils, because you won't want to waste any time in the day.

Enjoy.

I’ve just remembered and looked out an article I wrote about 20 years back for our club Journal. It details the places we visited and some of the routes we did on one of our visits to Oz. If you’re interested I can send you a copy.

I’ve been in the Blue Mountains for 3 weeks, it’s absolutely insanely good! Beautiful multi pitches, so much climbing here. I’m planning for Nowra next, I’ve kind of missed the season for the Araps for now. 
 

I can let you know more once I’ve done my year here if you remember!

Araps can be really good in May