UKC

/ Been to Orpierre?

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rockface - on 10 Feb 2018

Anyone been climbing in Orpierre? Heading there later this year. Advice, recommendations, etc. please

resqueman on 11 Feb 2018
In reply to rockface:

I climb in orpierre two times a year, in may and october.
If your planning to camp? http://camping-orpierre.fr/en/accueil.html
The nights can be cold. (there are gites in the village, look online)
There is a climbing shop that will open, if he is not climbing.
routes on 4 heures (4 oçlock) stay mostly dry. routes on quiquillon get a lot of slippage.
Nearly all the routes up from 6a are good climbs, under 6a most have seen a lot of climbers.
support local supermarket, they live off the income of the climbers. they sell the new topos there.
347 single pitch routes, 60 multi pitch routes. grades are from 3c to 8c.
There is one bar/restaurant in town, very friendly.


 

rockface - on 11 Feb 2018
In reply to resqueman:

Thanks for the info. Much obliged!

Kevster - on 11 Feb 2018
In reply to rockface:

I've been there a few times, enjoyed it. 

As said, some routes are well loved, and a little polish can be found. Some crag areas have bays, with lower grade and some higher grade climbs in quite close proximity. So can be good for mixed ability groups. 

There is plenty to go at, and if you want somthing with a little difference, I really enjoyed a day at sisteron, though a fair car journey from orpieere itself it does offer some really fun shell pulling in the little cave feature between the fins. There is also a really good restaurant for lunch which over looks the crag.  A welcome break from the sun when hot.

Rock fax is not comprehensive for the area and some severe errors in route finding or grades can be found, either within the pages or in my translation of them. We also had a number of french guides, which were mostly good but topos were more line drawings than pictures, and even though I am good with simple line topos, at times tough to use too. 

Route names and grades are on the bottoms of some routes in some sectors.

I'd say go and enjoy. 

mark catcher - on 11 Feb 2018
In reply to Kevster: 

I really enjoyed a day at sisteron, though a fair car journey from orpieere itself 

It's not even a fair bike ride!

 


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