UKC

Hey UKC Hive-mind, 

I'm looking at doing a Summer 2022 trip to the Bugaboos in Canada and was hoping to pick the brains of anyone who had been in terms of logistics, kit etc. Particularly what people have done to get up the trailhead if flying into Calgary. The obvious option is to hire a car but seems daft to pay for it to be sat in the parking lot for 2 or 3 weeks! Is there any other way of getting up there short of hitchhiking?

Any route recommendations are welcome. Eyeing up the obvious classics like the Beckey-Chouinard, Sunshine Crack and Super Direct as well as some of the longer, alpine ridges etc. 

Cheers!

I think you're out of luck - I don't think you can even get to Golden or Radium by coach anymore since Greyhound cut their services.  You can try posting for ideas on the Calgary Climbing Community or Alpine Climbs in the Rockies FB groups (yes, I know its not on the Rockies).  There will be regular traffic from Calgary to the Bugs, as it's doable as a weekend trip.

The U of C Outdoor Centre and the MEC do gear hire, but it would pay to book in advance.

It might cost a bit more, but car hire is pretty cheap. Last time I flew into Calgary used a company called Routes, close to the airport and very reasonable. We paid for a basic busget car and got upgraded to a 4x4 and it seemed so did everyone else there.

Thanks Alex, I'll give them a look. It definitely seems like the easier option, just whether it was going to be eye-wateringly expensive. Obviously becomes more palatable if you're in a team of 4 but that's not been decided yet Thanks for the help!

Edit: Can you remember how much you paid if you don't mind me asking? 

Thanks George, I'll give those FB groups a look. Cheers!

I had a look earlier, it was about 160 cad a week which is about £90. Not quite Spanish car hire prices, but decent for N America.

wow yeah that's super cheap! The lowest I've found is more like £250 per week although that's for summer 2021

Travelling without a car in North America is pretty sporadic and time consuming. I think you should rent a car. It could be very useful to have at the trailhead, if some unforeseen event happens or you need more supplies during your two or three-week visit.

Yep very fair point. Or for bailing to a different area in the event of rubbish weather which I gather can most definitely happen in the Bugs

Hi Gabe

Hire car is probably the best option.

It means you've somewhere to leave a few luxuries/change of clothes. Plus the walk in/out from the parking to the campgrounds isn't really that long, especially if you're not carrying much, so bailing for a day or 2 to get beer/pizza/showers/supplies etc if weather's crap or you need a rest is highly feasible rather than just sit it out in the tent.

Plus there's good climbing around Lake Louise, Canmore, Yamnuska Rock, etc which are all only a few hours away as alternatives.

Your only other option rather than a hire car would be to throw some cash at a local to drive you in and out. For summer 22 there's time to sort this out, but to make it worth their while might end up being ~70% the cost of the hirecar without the flexibility.

Some people you could approach for ideas are:

The Alpine Club of Canada (Calgary section) - huge membership, someone may say yes.

Yamnuska Rock (guiding service) based in Canmore.

Dogtooth Climbing gym in Golden.

We stayed near the boulder bivy near the start of the becky chouinard. It’s just outside of the national park boundary so wild camping is allowed. The walk up to here from the car park with a heavy bag was bad, but once you’re there it’s a lot quieter and there are plenty of great routes. I know some people who got a chopper in to here. Obviously a lot more expensive, but you could take a lot more kit and stay out there for longer. 

Maybe check the suoertopo forums for more info. If you can find others to share the ride, prices might be reasonable.

I went to the Purcells and just hired a car and left it at the trailhead (in some areas round there you have to build a wire fench around the car to stop woodland creatures eating the brake cables). It felt like a waste of money but there isn't much choice. As others have said, if you somehow get to the bugaboos without a car and then you loose a boot or your harness or something what are you going to do? Or if it pours down for 2 weeks you won't want to stay at the camp doing nothing.

Last time I was in Canada we had 6 inches of snow at the start of September, that would have been grim stuck somewhere

Thanks for all the comments guys. Loads of good points and stuff for me the think about. Much appreciated! 

It was 12 years since I went but:

1. We hired a car, there didn’t seem an alternative as the logging road to get to the start of the walk in is IIRC 46kms and obviously no public transport. First time up it was a bit heart in mouth as we were worried we would get it stuck or lose the exhaust as some of the ruts are pretty deep. Might have been a perception thing as we did do an unnecessary return trip to Radion Springs on a rest day. 
2. We had intended to stay in the Bugs two weeks but bailed after 10 days so the hire car was useful to get us to other places. 
3. The day we landed we stayed the night at the alpine club HQ in Canmore which was great.

4. Stayed in Kain Hut, loved it especially when a massive hail storm came in and flattened half the tents in the camp ground

5. We did about 4 easyish routes and they were all world class but especially Snowpatch Route (D) route, but also did this (not Bugs) which is among the best I’ve ever done as well: Cardiac Arete (5.10d)

Other things worth knowing.

Hot springs are a nice rest day activity and are pretty cheap depending on which one you visit. We went to one that was $6 for as long as you wanted + free showers

Airbnb’s in Calgary are really cheap, the further you get from Calgary/Edmonton the more expensive they get.

As above, lots of great routes along the road to the Bugs.