UKC

Climbing at Loja, Spain. Banned?

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Does anyone know anything about the current state of access at Loja? It's says in the logbooks that a lot of the bolts have been removed, but I can't find any other info.

Also, any other crag recommendations around there would be much appreciated. Looking for a range of grades from sixes to eights (not necessarily same crag). Been looking at the villanueva crags, which look good. 

 biscuit 12 Sep 2021
In reply to Luke01:

Villanueva crags are great - it's not just Chilam Balam cave. Areas like la Madera are also well worth a visit.

Cauche (sector yugoslavia in the old rockfax) is a great crag with a really good wall of 7's behind the main wall - which is also great.

Loja has been banned for years now. Vultures nesting. It was an amazing crag. 

If you can find the guide for Marbella the climbing there is surprisingly good.

In reply to biscuit:

Thanks for the info, that's great stuff. 


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