UKC

Has anyone climbed at Cascais or Sintra, near Lisbon? Four of us are thinking of heading there for a week in September, we climb between 5-6c.

Any advice/experiences would be great.

Chris

In reply to chris_r:
hello,
yes - ive climbed at Cascais - its nice limestone, well bolted and right next to the sea. It is also near to a sewage outfall which isnt quite so pleasent - but it only dischrages at certain times of the day!
Guide is fairly basic http://www.ct4bb.com/escalada/tocascais.html and Id be more than happy to photocopy my topo and send it to you (it is literally one page of A4)... I havent climbed at sintra, but Ive heard it is good - less greasy than cascais as not by the sea. Good guide is by Jingo Wobbly http://www.needlesports.com/acatalog/Mail_Order_Spain_121.html (scroll down past spain) - also has bouldering and DWS.

In reply to chris_r:
forgot to say - drop me an email if you want guide or any other info! Enjoy! Vic

In reply to chris_r:
To climb in Cascais and Sintra you do not need a guidebook. You can find both topos in http://www.gmesintra.com/

In case you have problems with portuguese here are the direct links:

Cascais: http://www.gmesintra.com/topos/html/guia2.htm# (use links above for the different sectors).

Sintra: http://www.gmesintra.com/topos/imagens/sintra/sintra.pdf

In Cascais you have the advantage of having names and grades written in almost every route.

I think that climbing in Cascais will be very hot during September. Although you can start really early, have a break for lunch and comeback at the end of the day. Some routes are very good (although short) but they can be very greasy in a very hot day. This is probably the most popular crag in Portugal.

Sintra is much cooler, but can still be hot. Here you have very good granite climbing with technical, scary, friction base routes. You do have some overhanging (7a and above) granite routes which are very good. Sintra is a very lovely place and you certainly will enjoy the views. You also have some multi-pitch routes up to 3 pitches. Really fantastic views from belays.

If you boulder Sintra is a paradise. You can by topos from here in case it is your thing http://bouldersintra.wordpress.com/
Just use the link "TOPO" in the right upper corner.

About the Jimbo Wobbly guidebook, I consider this as a really bad and very expensive guidebook with really bad topos (many are not much more than 2 horizontal parallel lines with vertical lines indicating routes). And because it is not up to date you will find it impossible to identify routes in many places.

Drop-me an e-mail if you want more information. There are many more places to climb around Lisbon. However, you will need a car to get to them.

Have a good trip,
Mario

In reply to chris_r:

I live near Cascais. Drop me a line if you need info.

Don't agree with Mario on Jingo Wobbly - I find it pretty easy to use. and your more than welcome to borrow it while your over.

In reply to chris_r:

Hi Chris

Just got back from climbing both Sintra and Cascais for a couple of days. Both are good fun and climbable at this time of year. Cascais is hotter, but (so long as it's not too rough) you can jump in the sea to cool off! We managed to do full days of climbing there on hot days, just belaying in the shade wherever possible.

Cascais is short(ish) limestone routes, although many (most?) are longer than at Portland. Rock is generally really good quality. Head to the lighthouse at Cascais, the entrance is the next path to the west. Once you're down at the crag, filter along east for some harder and less busy routes.

For sintra, use the www.gme... topo (above) which is pretty good (no need to buy the book if you're just doing these two sites - we didn't). The directions to the crag which we had were pretty awful - get a map (if necessary from tourist info), the parking bay is on Estrada da Pena, and you walk up the steps which are about 100m into the 'natural park' (which is just up from the parking bay).

The climbing at Sintra is pretty particular - exposed granite routes where you're often relying purely on friction - no real foot or handholds! That said, the two main multipitch routes are nice (New Wave and the three-pitch route slightly to the left of it, can't remember the name). Take a jumper in case it's cloudy, and sunscreen in case it's not - belaying up on the routes can get quite hot.

Have fun, email me if you'd like to know more

Joe

PS for a non-climbing day, the capuchin convent at sintra is pretty cool!

In reply to chris_r:

We're flying off to Lisbon on Monday for a week. Thanks for all your advice. I'll let you know how we get on.

Chris