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Climbing, trekking and camping in the Andes

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 jld579 19 Jan 2017
I'm off to Peru and Ecuador for a good long trip. I would like to climb, I mostly rock climb and boulder, any one know of some good spots. I would like to try some summits, I've some experience in the Alps and Scotland and recommendations on what to aim for or guide books? And finally camping kit, mostly what sleeping bag to take??
 jimmccall 19 Jan 2017
In reply to jld579:
I spent time in Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru in the mid to late 90s through to the early 00s... I used John Bigger's guidebook. It was fine. He is still active and, although I haven't seen the update, I suspect it is a good starting point. Yossi Brain was active then too and I think he produced a guide. He's sadly long gone now, but you should be able to get enough info for some impressive summits from these guidebooks.On one trip, we sport and trad climbed just out of Quito. We asked at local climbing/mountaineering shops/trip organisers for details of crags and that served well enough. These were only a short taxi drive away from the Miresflores area. Finally, sleeping bags... early trips I used a synthetic Ajungulak, was always cold but survived. Later a 5 season down bag. Sleeping high, it was cold, and I was glad of it. If I was to go again, I would want a 5 season down for comfort... Good luck!
Jim
Post edited at 22:10
 jonnie3430 20 Jan 2017
In reply to jld579:

Have a look at Huaraz in Peru, it's the base town for the cordillera blanca. One of the guide companies there has opened a fairly large sport area and mountain hut for accommodation at hatun machay. There is bouldering in and around huaraz and easy access to many of the blanca and huaywash peaks. For guides, online is probably best, each route changes every year depending on the glacier, so checking at guide offices for the latest variation is suggested. I think it is supertopo that has lots of good info on routes and peaks in the area. Top peak is probably alpamayo.

Ecuador is a lot more spread out, so longer journeys are needed for each trip, but Cotopaxi and Chimborazo are good.
 jimmccall 20 Jan 2017
In reply to jonnie3430:

I would second Huaraz as a possible base town... some objectives available and lots of services. A fair amount of trekking available here too (although the original post didn't mention it, the title did...).

Cotapaxi and Chimborazo are good... but I believe Cotapaxi to be a little more active than one would like, at the moment... Just to mention it...
Jim
 jonnie3430 20 Jan 2017
In reply to jimmccall:

Cotopaxi was a bit more active than I would like I was on it! We were warned of snowpack melting from underneath near the top. No idea what it's like now.

I forgot to answer the sleeping bag question of the OP. I sleep warm so use a 2 season for pretty much everything. When it's really cold, like at high camp, I wear all my layers bar the top one and a hat, and lay my down jacket over the top, inside the sleeping bag. This had always been fine for me and means I use all the kit I have, instead of carrying stuff up and not using it when sleeping. My tent, a NF westwind is also quite warm to sleep in. Only you can figure whether you're a warm or cold sleeper, admin helps too, making sure your hydrated with warm stuff as you go to bed so your sleeping bag warms up, make sure boots and gas stay warm and your roll mat is good (I use two foam ones.) And have a pee bottle so you don't lose heat going to the bathroom...
 jonnie3430 21 Jan 2017
In reply to jld579:

Sorry, it wasn't supertopo, but summitpost.org that I was thinking about for good information on peaks.

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