UKC

Does anyone have any good sources of conditions in the dolomites or any first hand knowledge of the current state of play?

Snow, snow snow snowwwwwwww

It's been bleedin' cold over here on the continent. Weather is picking up a bit now down in the valleys but it's still very cold (1-2 degrees) and snow on the ground in the mountains. 

Go to Verdon  

Tempting. Any other nice big easy rock climbing destinations somewhere between the UK and dolomites? Not keen for snowy stuff really just big multipitch up to about VS with some cragging and generally a nice place to be... Maybe wait for some of the snow to melt. Maybe Paklenica? 

I mean you literally just described Verdon...! 

Can't really comment unfortunately as I'm not very familiar with the 'middle band' climbing. I'm sure there's stacks. Verdon is world class however and a curiously easy place to find partners for all kinds of climbing. 

It does present something around a 500 mile detour compared to driving directly to the Dollies, but it's worth it. 

"up to about VS" ???

Yeah, the odd 6a pitch is acceptable but most of the climbing needs to be below that. I think the verdon starts from about 6a right? Diversions are ok!

Maybe I'm out of touch with these grades but most people I know who climb VS are usually happy on 6a - perhaps this doesn't apply to the OP. Some routes I would have suggested would be: 

Chan-thé (5c)

Les Dalles (5c)

Télégrammes (6a)

If OP is not happy on f5c as a steady grade then you're probably correct that Verdon is not the correct place for him. 

The routes I've listed above are by no means the only routes around that grade and I certainly wouldn't dismiss the area as 6a and above. Even if, it's often possible to use a little judicious aid (pulling on a draw or gear) to take a harder sequence down to your level. 

Mischa is correct, lots of snow still about. You would have to choose your objectives carefully both in terms of snow melt and aspect. And then still be prepared for snow and ice patches.

I'm happy leading 6a but partner will struggle to second them day in day out. 

Well I would say if you are not 100% sure of your abilities then steer clear of the main area of the Dolomites at the moment as it will be a more alpine experience than usual. You could however look towards the Sarca Valley around Arco - I don't have any experience of it though so you'd have to do some research. But it's lower and warmer there. 

Forget dolomites at the moment. A fresh load of snow middle of next week. If you are in the area already, look for Arco, Lecco, or Ticino. All have long multippitch routes at your grade. If not, Paklenica is great, but another six hours drive. 

Thanks, so thinking of heading to cote d'azure and see what's what! maybe next year! 

Does anyone have more recent info on snow in the Dolomites? I'll be in the area in about 2 weeks. 

Thanks

Al 

what are you planing on climbing?

I’m here for the rest of the summer so if this thread keeps running, don’t hesitate to ask. Today I was out for hopefully a climb - our objective was just some easy sport climbing. The snow this year came very late, infact I have acquaintances through facebook who are still skiing, or have been until about a week ago. I think that shoukd give you a picture for how much snow there is hanging about. So as I say, today, at Fedaia Pass between Canazei and Caorile on the Northern side of   Marmolada, there was snow at the pass in patches. So much so that because we were in trainers and I was with a six year old I turned back more or less immediately. All northern aspects above 2200m are holding snow to some degree. Southern aspects are different and generally clear of snow more or less to the summits at 2800m or so. If you are planning on walking at above these heights, you need to be prepared for snow, whether that is bringing poles or an axe or even crampons depending on the amount of time you plan to spend on these aspects. I would go so far as to say it’s likely that you could even do some alpine mixed routes until July. Certainly do not underestimate climbs at the moment - there is added spice.