/ Easy Multipitch Trad Holiday
I'm looking for a climbing holiday destination for Summer/Autumn this year. A short haul flight (or land based transport) away.
I enjoy multipitch easy trad. By easy I mean scrambling -> HS. I can lead up to E1 but enjoy being able to move quickly in the mountains on easy terrain.
I have been to Norway and have considered Morocco, but wonder whether the best climbs are VS and above.
Somewhere in the Alps? The Dolomites?
I can sort of summarise my desire as the Lake District but with reliable weather and the opportunity to see a new place.
Thanks in advance for the advice.
went to tafroute, climbed in the grade range you want for a week. Does limit the crags you can visit a bit but plenty to do. Too hot in summer though. Good option for later in the year. Some of the starred easy routes are a bit shit but i think that is true of all the routes. Some quality unstarred routes though. Nice for a bit of an adventure..
Done similar in the aguile rouge (more bolt clipping though) in chamonix. Dolomites is great at that grade range, will be heading there again this summer. Living costs much higher in italy if thats a consideration.
There are loads of good routes below VS around Tafraout, and if you've never been to Morocco then it's certainly a 'different' experience! Here's a few suggestions for starters...
Assuming Autumn, not summer, then I would vote for Jordan. Cheap flight. World class easy climbing and scrambling.
The Dolomites would fit the bill but you'd have to be careful about that reliable weather. Maybe best late summer/early autumn when things settle? In the summer if you're unlucky the weather can be reliably dire (we sat through about 3 days solid of stair rods) and there can be thunderstorms in the afternoon.
The classic routes at around IV+ would suit your grade criteria and some of the shorter peaks are definitely Lakes-stature. Hexenstein and south face of Averau spring to mind. You could also do some via ferratta.
Paklenica in Croatia? Beautiful spot with good easy multipitch, a mix of trad and bolted. Cool places to visit on rest days too (Krka, Plitvice etc)
Picos de Europa, though wait until September to avoid the crowds
This week's Friday Night Video is from UKC regular David Linnett. The short clip features Johnny Dawes climbing the Roaches classic Chalkstorm, although in Johnny's modern style: hands-free.