/ Easy Multipitch Trad Holiday

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Bradbury on 15 Mar 2019

I'm looking for a climbing holiday destination for Summer/Autumn this year. A short haul flight (or land based transport) away.

I enjoy multipitch easy trad. By easy I mean scrambling -> HS. I can lead up to E1 but enjoy being able to move quickly in the mountains on easy terrain.

I have been to Norway and have considered Morocco, but wonder whether the best climbs are VS and above.

Somewhere in the Alps? The Dolomites?

I can sort of summarise my desire as the Lake District but with reliable weather and the opportunity to see a new place.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Andy

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dunnyg - on 15 Mar 2019
In reply to Bradbury:

went to tafroute, climbed in the grade range you want for a week. Does limit the crags you can visit a bit but plenty to do. Too hot in summer though. Good option for later in the year. Some of the starred easy routes are a bit shit but i think that is true of all the routes. Some quality unstarred routes though. Nice for a bit of an adventure..

Done similar in the aguile rouge (more bolt clipping though) in chamonix. Dolomites is great at that grade range, will be heading there again this summer. Living costs much higher in italy if thats a consideration. 

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Steve Broadbent - on 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Bradbury:

There are loads of good routes below VS around Tafraout, and if you've never been to Morocco then it's certainly a 'different' experience! Here's a few suggestions for starters...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2972

https://www.climb-tafraout.com/100-classic-climbs.php

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David Coley - on 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Bradbury:

Assuming Autumn, not summer, then I would vote for Jordan. Cheap flight. World class easy climbing and scrambling.

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Will Hunt - on 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Bradbury:

The Dolomites would fit the bill but you'd have to be careful about that reliable weather. Maybe best late summer/early autumn when things settle? In the summer if you're unlucky the weather can be reliably dire (we sat through about 3 days solid of stair rods) and there can be thunderstorms in the afternoon.

The classic routes at around IV+ would suit your grade criteria and some of the shorter peaks are definitely Lakes-stature. Hexenstein and south face of Averau spring to mind. You could also do some via ferratta.

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ChrisBrooke - on 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Bradbury:

Paklenica in Croatia? Beautiful spot with good easy multipitch, a mix of trad and bolted. Cool places to visit on rest days too (Krka, Plitvice etc)

Post edited at 17:01
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Simon Caldwell - on 18 Mar 2019
In reply to Bradbury:

Picos de Europa, though wait until September to avoid the crowds

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Bradbury on 16:00 Fri
In reply to Bradbury:

Thanks all. I will look into your suggestions

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Tom Ripley - on 19:21 Fri
In reply to Bradbury:

Red Rocks has some of the best easy climbing anywhere.

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planetmarshall on 20:28 Fri
In reply to Tom Ripley:

> Red Rocks has some of the best easy climbing anywhere.

Not exactly a short haul flight from the UK, though.

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payney1973 - on 05:01 Sat
In reply to Bradbury:

Costa Blanca is great that time of year, stay at the Orange house in finestrat! Great vibe and loads on up to date beta on routes.

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profitofdoom on 05:29 Sat
In reply to David Coley:

> Assuming Autumn, not summer, then I would vote for Jordan. Cheap flight....

Thanks very much, but it's not cheap by my standards - London-Amman return is 320 to 380 quid return in September/ October

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rgold - on 20:26 Sat
In reply to Tom Ripley:

> Red Rocks has some of the best easy climbing anywhere.

Yes but not a summer destination!

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David Coley - on 07:25 Mon
In reply to profitofdoom:

> Thanks very much, but it's not cheap by my standards - London-Amman return is 320 to 380 quid return in September/ October

EasyJet to aqaba is the flight you want 

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henwardian - on 09:06 Mon
In reply to Bradbury:

Dolomites are a good bet. Loads and loads to go at. Many of the famous classics are at very amenable grades and the loose rock that the Dolomites is (perhaps unjustly) renown for has all been removed from the easier and older climbs. Having said that, the ones that really are classic and have short approaches are also really crowded, so walking a little further in to routes that are a little longer will result in a much calmer and more pleasant day. A lot of the descents involve very exposed scrambling and good route-finding skills, so be prepared for that.

I think the cheaper flights are to somewhere like Treviso.

Post edited at 09:07
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profitofdoom on 09:58 Mon
In reply to David Coley:

> EasyJet to aqaba is the flight you want 

OK, and thanks for the tip

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