UKC

Finland Olhava - Kantti

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 Sl@te Head 30 May 2015
In reply to Sl@te Head:
camping in Finland /Suomi, Fin has loads of bothy type places take a light axe and no cooking stove even if you stay on a site

Mosquito Do not dismiss them !
Post edited at 17:59
 HeMa 30 May 2015
In reply to Sl@te Head:

Kantti would be even more ballsy than usually with solely on bolts (5 bolts on about 45m of climbing and not evenly spaced). Gear opportunities aren't great on it, but you might want to have a few mid sized cams (Camalot sizes, 1 and 2). Also headin' to Olhava solely for that is not perhaps the optimal solution.

So take a full set of nuts (not that heavy) and some smaller sizes of cams as well. That would mean you could pretty much climb 95% of the routes there.

Camping there is free btw. But mosqitos might be a nuisance or not. there is also a firepit and some 150m away a bunch of firewood.
 Dave 31 May 2015
In reply to Sl@te Head:

My recollection is you can get a couple of small-med wires in lower down on the route, then its very well spaced bolts, then a medium cam, I think a camalot 2, in the horizontal break a few m below the top, then there's another bolt and thats it. Its an unforgettable onsight. With some quick draws, lots of medium nuts and a small selection of small- med cams you can climb a lot of routes in Olhava.

 Kemics 31 May 2015
In reply to Sl@te Head:

Yeah, it mostly goes on the bolts (the grade in guidebook is 6a+....which is Finish sandbagging at it's finest) but you definitely want cams as they can be placed in the breaks. I think there's 3 breaks spaced evenly up the route. I left my wires with belayer but remember finding halfway up one face section a small constriction on face which would have taken a medium wire..but far from crucial.

It's an amazing route. You approach via rowing boat across a lake the same colour as a cocacola. Perfect setting, perfect route.

There's some fantastic routes on olhava. I also though Salama was great. Highly recommended!

Also in the forests around are the most delicious blue berries (at least in july) I ended up adding about a half pint worth to my muesli every morning. Cant eat blueberries since as they taste like shit in comparison

No mosquitos when I was there, which was fab. In Sweden they crushed my will to live.

absolute must visit crag if you're close

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