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Loch Lomond bouldering, and midges in June

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 andyjirvin 12 Jun 2017
Hi folks,

Next week I'll be heading up to the Loch Lomond area with family and friends. I've not been to this part of Scotland before, having previously just driven through on the way to the highlands and islands.

Could anyone advise on a couple of points:

1. How bad are the midges likely to be this time of year? In particular, I'm concerned about what we can do for my 10 month old son, and wether we need to go for head nets/ maybe a net over his buggy? I'd like to take him out on some longer walks in a carrier, not sure how easy it will be to cover him up in that. Suspect this is all weather dependent anyway.

2. Is there any easy-access bouldering around these parts? Or within an hours drive? Failing that, friendly roadside crags within a similar distance would be the next option.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!
Andy
 kwoods 12 Jun 2017
In reply to andyjirvin:

Hey.

There's some bouldering but none I would call entirely family friendly if that's what you're thinking. Closest options (assuming you're on the A82) are Glen Croe and the area around Ardlui which has been developed more recently. Further south, Dumbarton has bouldering at every range but commonly cited as 'acquired taste'. it helps to have someone show you around if you haven't been but there's usually a lot of folk there in afternoons/evenings too.

All the Loch Lomond locations have easy bouldering as well as hard but the easier problems tend to be a bit dirty - bring a brush and clean a few if you get there. Glen Croe locations are generally roadside too, so suitable and ideal in that regard which a good spread of problems, and a few really stunning lines.

Midges? All the way... prioritise bright sun, breezy weather - wind is all important which makes more exposed venues ideal - the area about Ardlui is pretty sheltered, east-facing and lots of birch wood. Dumbarton bouldering gets the sea breeze a lot if you're desperate. Midges like low light (evenings) and still weather. So those humid summer evenings bring them right out.

For cragging, Glen Croe (particular Mid Crag) is close to the road, well travelled and friendly with generally good landings and belay stakes on top. Don't even try Ardvorlich sport crag at this time of year; the bracken is horrendous. I've tried; just not pretty.

Otherwise, there are plenty (usually quite bold) slabs around at Loch Sloy, on the east bank of Loch Lomond, higher in Glen Croe.. Have a look at crags down toward and by Inveraray, there are a few big lumps of rock that way too.

And then within the hour (in good traffic) you have Glen Coe....

Kev
In reply to andyjirvin:

> 1. How bad are the midges likely to be this time of year? In particular, I'm concerned about what we can do for my 10 month old son, and wether we need to go for head nets/ maybe a net over his buggy? I'd like to take him out on some longer walks in a carrier, not sure how easy it will be to cover him up in that. Suspect this is all weather dependent anyway.

Currently a 2 out of 5 on the forecast in that area. See https://www.smidgeup.com/midge-forecast/
That said it is a generalised forecast and will vary depending on location, and of course the weather.

Better to get a net for the young one unless you already know he does not reacts badly to bites already. It will not be pleasant for a 10 mth old if he reacts badly. For adults, really depends on whether they react to bites or not. If they do, better to be on safe side. In addition worth getting some deterrent, say like smidge. I've used it to good effect, but I generally don't get too badly affected to midge bites, so can't really say for sure if it is good. Avon skin so soft has also worked for me!
Jim C 12 Jun 2017
In reply to andyjirvin:
6 miles from Lochlomond. On the Clyde/ Leven so if windy the midges might be bearable .

http://www.dumby.info/

Edit:- There is a restriction on the main path closest to the castle, access is through the football ground and then through the overgrown trees , the 'path' can be quite muddy if it's been wet)
Post edited at 14:53
OP andyjirvin 12 Jun 2017
In reply to kwoods:

Thanks for the bouldering recommendations, I'll check those out. I suspect Dumbarton isn't going to be quite right for this trip, although the sea breeze sounds pretty useful.

I was wondering what we could find in Glen Coe, but then I suspect that's a whole other thread...
OP andyjirvin 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Climbing Pieman:

The midge-forecast is a great idea! Didn't know that existed. And you're quite right about reactions to bites, we have no idea. So I'd like to try and be as preventative as possible and that may choosing locations based on wind, sunshine etc and not staying out too late.

Does anyone know if Smidge is ok for a 10 month old? I'm reading some conflicting reports...
OP andyjirvin 12 Jun 2017
In reply to Jim C:

Thanks. I'm not sure Dumby is going to be right for us this time around, but I'll definitely keep it in mind.
In reply to andyjirvin:

> Does anyone know if Smidge is ok for a 10 month old? I'm reading some conflicting reports...

Checked my container and it says over 2yrs old, and the website says the same, so that's not suitable for your son. More reason to get a net to minimise the chance of him getting bites.

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