UKC

North Carolina Trip - 23rd March - 5th April

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 willpitt07 04 Mar 2018

Heading to North Carolina from 23rd March - 5th April and would like to have a few days climbing.

Going to be in Durham for some time and Asheville for some of it.

Any suggestions for climbing spots?

Also are there any good NC climbing guide books?

Cheers 

 1234None 04 Mar 2018
In reply to willpitt07:

I've spent a lot of time out there over the years, but only managed to climb at a few crags:  

Stone Mountain - Great if you like slabby granite.  I did some of the most terrifying pitches I have ever done in my life there...bolted on lead sort of things with 2 bolts in a 40m pitch, combined with fairly sustained British 5b/5c climbing.  On the other hand, the Great Arch is one of the best easy routes I have done anywhere in terms of the line and the climbing.  On the harder routes, I'm sure it isn't all terrifying, and it is in a beautiful spot.  Worth a visit for sure.  Camping within walking distance of the crag in the Stone Mountain state park.

Rumbling Bald - A bit further South - some great single pitch trad and sport.  I really enjoyed this place.  Again, a beautiful spot in the woods.  Fantastic rock with some really striking lines.  Also world-class bouldering below the crag.  For me, the best of the single pitch, easy-access crags.  Some touristy spots down by the lake for post-crag food and good beer.

Linville Gorge - A bit bigger and more adventurous.  Some of the rock can be suspect, but on the more travelled routes it's nothing terrible.

Laurel Knob - Remote, adventurous and big.  Huge granite wall in the middle of the forest.  Access now OK (I think).  Stunning location, long multi-pitch routes on mostly great rock.  Abseil descents.  Never busy.  If I went back and only had time for one crag, it'd be this one - although it does need a little more time than any of the others.

Pilot Mountain - I thought it was scrappy on the routes we did there, but it was about -10 in the middle of winter and there were icicles hanging off most of the steeper rock, so it could actually be better than I remember.  I remember it being more easy access than some of the other places.

We did have a guidebook but it is in an attic somewhere and I'm abroad.   If you get chance and you need a quick climb while based away from the climbing areas there is a good indoor wall in Cary somewhere...not far from Durham if I recall correctly.

 

Post edited at 18:22
 rpc 05 Mar 2018
In reply to willpitt07:

currently the best (only?) guidebook to the state:

https://www.rockandsnow.com/8774/Selected-Climbs-in-North-Carolina/?gclid=E...

 

Ditto on what other poster said regarding Stone Mountain.  You'll have some very memorable moments and days if you go climbing there.

 redcal 05 Mar 2018
In reply to willpitt07:

Lived and worked near Ashville,

Looking Glass Rock is a must visit, under an hour away from AVL. Huge granite dome covered in unique eyebrow slabs and water grooves along with some splitter cracks. Has a really good spread of grades and styles. Take tri-cams for the "eyebrows". Bolted descents on most routes but otherwise unbolted. Grab an ice cream at Dolly's on the drive out. 

Rumbling Bald again has great granite and bouldering, good single pitch lines around the "cereal wall" area that all have multi-pitch extensions. Again mostly trad with a few bolted lines. Nearby Chimney Rock village will satisfy any cravings for ribs and wings.

Tourist notes...Ashville is heaven if you like a beer, Sierra Nevada and Oskar Blues both have breweries close by along with endless local tap rooms. 

If the weather is not playing ball in the mountains then you are only 4-5 hours from Red River Gorge for a day trip.

Guide book, Selected Climbs NC, there is also a new Rumbling Bald guide that has some of the more recent developments. 

OP willpitt07 17 Mar 2018
In reply to 1234None:

Cheers,

Very helpful. Might see if I can get down to Rumbling Bald...

OP willpitt07 17 Mar 2018
In reply to rpc:

Just purchased 

thanks

OP willpitt07 17 Mar 2018
In reply to redcal:

I think we have a few votes for Rumbling Bald


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...