UKC

/ North facing crags Majorca 6b-7b

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rachelpearce01 - on 10 Sep 2018

Can anyone recommend some decent crags in the shade in Majorca, ideally not slabby grey fingery limestone ! 

SGD - on 10 Sep 2018
In reply to rachelpearce01:

This place might fit the bill. Climbed here last Sept when it was fairly hot. The crag is in some woods so even if the sun is on the wall shade is never far away.

S'estret

Emilio Bachini on 11 Sep 2018
In reply to rachelpearce01:

I've got some recommendations but my phone keeps dying on me. I'll let you know soon, hopefully.

 

Emilio. 

Emilio Bachini on 11 Sep 2018
In reply to rachelpearce01:

Gorg Blau does have some grey slab climbing, but there's plenty more slightly overhanging routes. 

Ca'n Nyic is a bit of a weird one. Very close to a road, not many routes but good ones and nice views. Can't remember what the rock's like though, just that it was cold when I went. 

Es Grau des Ruc has a bit of a steep downhill walk in (save something for the return trip) but there's plenty of steep orange rock to go around. Very peaceful, good views.

There's plenty more of crags that suit your agenda but I won't push my luck with my phone battery. Try befriend a local, they'll likely know some good spots that you won't find elsewhere.

Emilio. 

Seymore Butt - on 11 Sep 2018
In reply to rachelpearce01

Fraguel, no contest. Even royalty climb there, see photos.

dominic o - on 12 Sep 2018
In reply to rachelpearce01:

We really rated Caimari on our last trip - certainly fingery / crimpy but plenty of routes that aren't slabs! 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/04/24/caimari-the-best-of-the-new-developments-in-mallorca/

Also +1 for Fraguel - awesome crag and plenty of shade

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/04/19/fraguel/

and another +1 for a less famous spot that ticks your shade and grade boxes S'Estret:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2017/04/15/sestret/

 

rachelpearce01 - on 18:16 Sun
In reply to rachelpearce01:

Thanks for all the advice! We’ve done a bit of Majorca last year, and found it A. very hot in the sun and B. really fierce in the low grades! Hopefully the harder routes are easier....

S’estret, Caimari and Alaro are on the list! 


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