UKC

Anybody been to Oltra Finale and got any tips about rock quality and style of climbing, best time to go, best crags in this huge area?

In reply to Exocet:

I climbed at Oltrefinale for three consecutive Christmas breaks. Even in December/January, the temperatures in the sun are fine; in the shade it can be cold. I have no experience there at other times of the year.

I'm afraid I can't give good advice on areas as I can't remember most of the names, but most crags should have something to offer in the 6b-7b range. Red Up has good stuff, I remember, including harder lines on tufas, and Euskal-Colosseo was also good. Bausu felt easier for the grade, but was beautiful. The local guidebook is worth the cash, and there is an older pdf guide somewhere online.

In reply to Exocet:

I've been in/around March over the past few years. Grade-wise the standard definitely tends to be best in/around the 6&7 mark, with sectors being both in/out of the shade (depending on the time of year). March has always been quite nice, with it being sunny/warm (a welcome relief from life back in the UK), but equally shade being there if you need it.

Terminal Area Crags is essentially the 'go-to' area, with the namesake 'Terminal' being the jewel in the crown and Erboristeria (right and left) both having a plethora of three star classics. Other more esoteric venues such as Red Up are well worth a visit, although it does depend on the grade you're climbing (Bob (7b), the crag's classic 7b, is worth travelling for - it's amazing). 

Elsewhere the Colletta Crags (such as Colletta Crags and  Bausu Crags also offer a good spread of routes, with a lot in/around the 7a grade.

Hope that's of use for now. Sorry if the grading is a little out on what you're after, but I figured I'd fire some info across from my own personal experience.

If you do go, enjoy

In reply to Exocet:

I'd second what Rob said. Apparently Cineplex is also amazing, but I've never made the effort to go up there.

One thing to note is the grades, especially in the 6's are stiff! Even someone climbing well into the 7's is going to find some of the 6c's pretty nails! The grades start to make more sense from around 7b and upwards, or at least that's what I thought.

It's a great area though. I'd highly recommend the apartments in Colletta. They are in such a brilliant location and the cafe/bar on site is great. I think this is the website http://colletta.it/

Thanks guys. We really need stuff starting in the high 5s/6a with plenty of 6a+ and up to 6c. Sounds like you might need to climb harder to get enough out of it? The other thing is,we don’t want anywhere that is mostly slabby. (Bad toes) So a selection of steeper sectors with good holds is the ideal area - think San Vito, Geriakos, Lamda, Prophitas Andreas for eg. rather than a lot of the crags at Roca  Verde for example  or even some of the walls at Ghost Kitchen -routes such as Pic Pic which I used to love, kill me now.  

 

In reply to Exocet:

I've not done loads of climbing in Finale, only 2 weeks, so maybe someone with more experiance of the area can help you out with that. From my personal experience the rock tends to offer small crimps and large flat holds. It's not typically very in-cut. For that reason the routes tend to be just either side of vertical. There are exceptions though, but you'll have to seek them out.

 

In reply to Martin McKenna - Rockfax:

thanks Martin. Sounds like not ideal then. You climbed in Croatia? Is that also more small holds rather than steep and juggy? 

 

In reply to Exocet:

Bad toes !  Have you tried board lasted shoes ? They may help.