UKC

Does anyone have any experience of Patagonia? Just looking into possible destinations for a trip and would like to know if anyone recommends anywhere.

I probably only have 2 weeks (weekend to weekend though) to play around with, and ideally it would be in October/November.

Thanks!

In reply to Nao:

Did a month in Aregentina back in 2000 that basically broke down as follows:

Days 1-3: arrive in BA and spend some time exploring and getting over the jetlag (we came from Oz)
Days 4-5: Fly to Calafate then bus to start of Fitzroy treck
Days 5-8: Fitzroy treck
Days 9-12: Torres del Paine treck
Days 12-13: Chilling in Peurto Natales
Days 14-16: Travelling to Mendoz for Aconcagua basecamp
Days 17-22: Treck to Ac. BC and back to Mendoza
then chill for a few days in Mendoza and BA then back home.

Remember it is a big country and the best way of getting around is probably to fly so i think in 2 weeks you could do 2 separate trecks in Patagonia eg Fitzroy & Paine (maybe not the full circuit).

Count on 4 seasons in 1 day and your tent nearly getting blown to shreds. Not sure if everything is open in Oct and lingering snow may be a problem. Great place but!

In reply to Nao: Just back from a month there. Spend about 2 weeks near Coyhaique in Chile, did Cerro Castillo trek (is in LP trekking in Patagonia) there and bummed about a bit. Then to El Chalten in Argentina for another 2 weeks. There we did a few treks in the national park and climbed Gorra Blanca on icecap. Tips would include any trekking near Fitzroy or if you have gear and skills try and do a trek on icecap - some guides in El Chalten -. Not been to Torres del Paine, but all sounds amazing so would also be worth it. Good climbin conditions probably on easier peaks that time of year, as we found to much snow had gone off the approached for some mountains. Can give some more info on climbs if you want cause not a lot out there and time consuming to get, but trekking info readily available in LP. National park office in El Chalten has good visitor books with details on conditions routes etc.
Flying is the way to go if thats the time you have - would be worth quitting the job and staying longer!

In reply to Nao: Try to head out as late as possible. I'm not sure how easy it will be to get to El Chalten (a must if you can) in October so it's probably worth writing to one of the guide centres out there first. I used Fitzroy Expeditions but I can't find there website to post you a link.

Definitely try to fit in Torres del Paine too, although you'll only be able to do the 'W' in October/November ('The circuit', which is the other trek, will most probably be shut due to snow/bridges collapsed over winter etc). The 'W' is still a great 4/5 day trip and well worth it.

As a result of El Chalten's limited access in October, it may be worth planning one or two other treks/climbs in more accessible areas that you will definitely be able to get to. These would include Bariloche, El Bolson and Coyhaique (and maybe even Ushuaia)

Bariloche and El Bolson are quite a long way north and flying would be quicker but the bus isn't too long (18-24hours) and a LOT cheaper. However, they're beautiful towns in the Lake district that offer stunning climbing and trekking. In October/November, it shouldn't be too busy.

Coyhaique is much closer to Puerto Natales (Torres del Paine) and is a great base for treks/climbs. Within half a days walk you can be a long way from civilisation, climbing/walking in areas few people will have been before.

Hope this helps.

Brad

In reply to Nao: what sort of stuff are you looking to do?

patagonia is fcuking enormous - although you might get to tick more places if you fly, i think if you drive you get a better connection with the place.

i would still recommend the carrera austral as a road trip - i think it goes past torres del paine.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2107143013

is where we started our trip up the eastern side of the andes (Ruta 40). the carrera austral is meant to be even better though.

In reply to Nao: actually, if you leave it as late as possible, you could get a trip from ushuaia to antarctica you lucky girl....

In reply to Nao:

Just back from a trip 4 wk trip to Chile over xmas & NY which included TDP and El Chalten as well as lakes and then north to the Atacama.

We treked the "W" in the TDP over 4 days/3 nights and then travelled to El Chalten via El Calafate. Spent 4 days/3 nights in El Chalten/Glacieres park. Both wonderful places.

We didn't use guides and the treking was reasonably straighforward and guidance trek times OK (we camped). Refugios avail in TDP or you can camp and eat in refugios also - book in advance though (and check that your timing isn't too early for them). All fixed tents for hire if you want to save your back.

-ve side is that the routes in the national parks are busy-ish (we went in late Dec which I'm sure contributed to this) with an array of folks clutching their lonely planet - despite the remote feel getting there.

Got the impression that if you want to do more serious stuff you need permits and possibly guides. Would be more time-consuming, risk on the weather, but potentially amazing.

We did flight to Santiago and thence to Puerto Arenas with LAN Chile. Note that the PA flight stops off at Puerto Montt in the lakes so it might be possible to have some time there too at a squeeze. Friend of mine went via Beuenes Aires (only SA city you get to from Heathrow)

Unlikely to need your swimsuit at this time of year though!

Please post more info if you want specifics.

Steve

In reply to Nao:

I've written a book on Los Glaciares National Park (Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre trekking area). It includes all the treks, trekking peaks and the ice cap trip referred to by another poster.

You can find information on it here;

http://www.simple-by-design.co.uk (I need to change the web address to something more suitable!)

Feel free to e-mail me if you'd like me to answer any specific questions.

In reply to Tobias at Home:

The Carreterra Austral goes from Puerto Montt in Chile and finishes south at Villa O'Higgins in Chile.

Way forward from there is by boat to the border point at Lago del Desierto. From there you can get into Argentina near Chalten (Fitz Roy, Torre peaks).

Would be an idea trip (1100km if you did it all!) Unfortunately, although it used to be a dirt road, I believe a lot of has been paved.

Once in Argentina go to Calafate and from there you get a bus which crosses the border at El Turbio and on into Puerto Natales (the access point for Torres del Paine.)

In reply to Removed User:

I've been in October and found no problems. Earlier than this there is a reduced bus service and potential snow drifts across the steppes.

Park was very quiet. El Chalten only had cooks, guides and me, generally.

Also been in April and found the same. I'd suggest missing out Dec/Jan as lots of people. Depends if you like it or not.

Coyhaique still quite far north from Natales. You'd pass Glaciares NP first. Either take the Carreterra Austral to Villa O' Higgins (see other post, needs time) or cross over into Argentina and take a bus down into Calafate. From there you can get to Chalten or Putero Natales (the latter border crossing again).

Hope of use.

Colin

Proviso - my info's a year old now. Things change. Good that others have been more recently. Feeling jealous now!

In reply to Nao:

www.explora-chile.com is an amazing place to stay.

Thanks all. Just looking for ideas really as I've been thinking of doing something 'different' to celebrate my 30th (cf my trip of a lifetime type thread). My birthday's end of November so was thinking of something around that time, but doesn't have to be the exact day.

I was thinking of the Inca Trail etc and still reasonably keen on the idea, but also fancied Patagonia as I have a bit of an affinity for Argentina/SA (used to live there). Have had plenty of experience of Buenos Aires so not overly fussed about spending tons of time there, and have been to Iguazu before - would be happy to go again though. I would really really like to see the glaciers - my bro's just been out there and is in Chile at the moment, and it looks amazing.

Basically: money not a huge consideration (willing to go on an organised expedition with the time we'll have, and not bothered about roughing it particularly, though don't really want to pay through the nose). Given that 2 weeks is probably the max, weekend to weekend so possibly 16ish days, I'd have thought that an organised thing would be best. The bloke's keen on boarding so if it can be combined with Bariloche or something then that would be good. Doesn't have to involve mountain climbing or anything! I'd be happy with a decent trek!

Realistically am looking for an organised tour company that offers a package, unless it's really easy to book things separately. Also: have friends in BA so could possibly stay with them for a day or two.

In reply to Nao:

If you like, I'll drop you an e-mail with some more information about Chalten companies. If you don't end up going there, no harm done.

It's seriously easy to just turn up and go if you are trekking. I'd suggest using a guide more for mountaineering activities (a variety of trekking peaks, around PD grade, or the ice cap traverse, c.6-9 days).

You can book these locally or through a couple of companies here in Scotland.

Let me know if you will find this useful.

Cheers,

Colin

In reply to Colin Henderson:

Yeah, that would be helpful - thanks. Just mail me through the site.

Cheers!

In reply to Nao:

i'm going in april for 8 weeks (with GVI - there is a premier post somewhere about it) cant wait.

i'm still trying to sort out my trip, so i dont have much advice, other than Aerolineas Argentinas seem to be the cheapest people to fly with.

In reply to Nao:

Okay, I'll do this early next week as now away for the weekend. Colin.

In reply to Nao: October could be like the middle of winter. The Careterra Austral could be closed and you could well have two weeks of solid, freezing rain. I have been in November, to the northern bit of Patagonia and it was unbelievable - freezing, howling wind and constant rain.

For that time of year I would undoubtedly recommend the big hills that lie immediately to the west of Santiago (Chile) - the trekking and mountaineering possibilities are massive and the weather will be good (well, no guarantees but the chances are...); the hills will be practically empty and the scenery is astounding.

Check out the climbing shop La Cumbre, which is in Las Condes, Santiago - their website has some very useful links and their staff are incredibly helpful. It's owned by a Dutch couple who also own an alpine hut near El Morado - two hours on an urban bus from downtown.

https://www.lacumbreonline.cl/index.php

Have fun

In reply to Nao:

Enduring Patagonia by Greg Crouch is one of the best climbing books I've ever read.

I went in feb / march and the weather was lovely, blue skies and no wind!