/ Recommend me a scramble!
I'm looking to take my partner up a nice scramble so she can get the feeling of moving over longer distances of rock. The plan is to treat it like an easy Mod so rope and gear will be taken so any or all difficulties can be pitched. I really want her to have a great day out so I want the risk of an epic to be as low as possible. She climbs well indoors but can sometimes get a bit overwhelmed outdoors, so something pleasant is needed
Generally good quality rock (no steep grass/moss/gravel etc)
Really easy and straightforward route-finding.
Probably Snowdonia, but we go all over the country so future recommendations also appreciated.
I was looking at the Clogwyn y Person arete but the logbooks/articles I can find seem to be 50% epics and 50% easy days out, with most people not sure if they were on the right route most of the time. Really need this to be as epic-proof as possible! All thoughts welcome
A classic one to do in the Lakes is Cam Crag Ridge. From the top you can drop down and do the Attic Cave route on Doves Nest, and/or Intake Ridge.
The scrambles in the Lakes are generally shorter and scrappier than Snowdonia, but the scenery and atmosphere more than make up for that. And you'll be able to get a decent pint at the end of the day.
Cwyfry arete. It is a diff and requires pitching but is very good and not tricky.
Another vote for Cam Crag. A great day out.
The East face of Tryfan would offer quite a variety of options on good rock. Nice summit to finish, with the option to scramble back down to Heather Terrace and go again if it's gone well and you fancy more mileage. That way, you could start with a grade 2 and then step up to a grade 3 or a Diff if she's feeling confident.
Other than the ones already mentioned, I enjoyed North-East Buttress on Gillercombe Crag in the Lake District.
For Wales, can't recommend Dolmen Ridge as I got lost finding the start and bailed after taking too long getting out of the mess I got into, but probably would be a good fit for your requirements.
I also enjoyed the Craig Lloer Spur on Pen Yr Ole Wen, which may also be a good fit.
There's a couple of great guidebooks called Scrambles and Easy Climbs by Jon Sparks et al, one for Snowdonia, one for the Lake District which might be a worthwhile purchase.
Craig Lloer Spur looks like a great warm up to anything else we do that weekend, not too long but with plenty of character. How did you descend? It's such a small scramble in relation to the mountain I can't work out if it makes more sense to ab off or hike up, if there is a way.
Bastow Buttress on the east face of Tryfan ticks the boxes in my view.
A strong line so route finding is easy
Possible escape into the gully if you want to (you won't)
Just about qualifies as 'technical' scambling so should be hard enough and it's of a decent length.
Looks good, thanks! Escape routes are always welcome ;)
> Craig Lloer Spur looks like a great warm up to anything else we do that weekend, not too long but with plenty of character. How did you descend? It's such a small scramble in relation to the mountain I can't work out if it makes more sense to ab off or hike up, if there is a way.
Oh definitely we incorporated it into a longer day and hiked on. One reason is I was clueless in terms of abseiling. But the main reason is that's what we were into - long mountain days with some scrambling/easy climbing thrown in. Enchaining multiple scrambles/easy climbs in one long day takes some planning but that's why I recommended those books - they were awesome for that.
Is there any other descent from the top of Craig Lloer apart from abbing off? Hard to tell from maps and google earth if heading up to Pen yr Ole Wen is extremely steep or easy scree slopes.
East ridge of Y Garn in the Ogwen valley. We did it at the end of last year and did it in the day. Walk arounds on all the tricky bits if your partner gets a bit shakey. We used it to practice moving with a short rope and leaving 2 pieces between us.
North Ridge of Tryfan (very easy if you pick the easiest line all the way, but short difficulties can be sought out at will for entertainment), followed by Bristly Ridge.
Great day out, long and great rock all the way. A great introduction to mountains and scrambles.
Ooh that looks lovely! My personal weakness is knife edges, they send my legs to jelly, but on this route they seem to be short sections which could be ideal Definite contender!
Come to Scotland. There is sooooo much choice for days out like that.
Also have a look at:
I'd second Bastow. It's a good route, excellent situation, and still gives you the best bit of the North Ridge to finish on.
Y Garn East Ridge is good too, but less continuous/more grassy bits, although the top airy section is brilliant.
If you are after Snowdonia then really the first suggestion on this thread is the best one of all in my opinion (Cneifion Arete) First bit is steep and best pitched, but holds are massive. Then gloriously exposed but straightforward and a good length. Orignal Route on the Idwal Slabs might also be worthwhile - again a rope and light rack will be appreciated if your partner is building confidence outside.
Second this - it’s the best scramble going! (Even better if you don’t mess around with a rope, but obviously proportional to ability/confidence)
As others have suggested, Ogwen is a great location. I'd really recommend North-West Face Route (Idwal Buttress and Continuation) (2). The first half is a wonderful, clean grade 2 slab. Super-pleasant climbing, but in a great situation. Above that the line can be varied, from grade 1 to grade 3, moving left to finish up the Idwal Staircase continuation or right to finish up the Idwal Buttress continuation, or escaping if it's all become a bit too much.
From there you can take a slightly scrambly path to the summit of Glyder Fach and then come down through the Devil's Kitchen (path), down Y Gribin (grade 1) or down Bristly Ridge (grade 1) and onto the Heather Terrace. Alternatively, from the top of the Idwal Buttress Continuation you could continue down into Cwm Cneifion and do the Cneifion Arête.
There's a lot of scope!
Thanks everyone for your suggestions, plenty for me and my partner to be getting on with
In the end we went for Y Garn's East Ridge on Saturday. It turned out to be one of the best mountain days we've had! Glorious weather and really nice scrambling with nothing too difficult or unavoidable, no ropework needed, though I was glad to have one in the bag. I made a little trip film with my GoPro if anyone's interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNTxJSpja4U
Chasm Route on Idwal is a geat route and certainly different.
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