/ Recommend routes in San Vito, up to 6a
Heading out to Sicily end of October for some family climbing and staying at El Bahira. Can anyone recommend some nice climbs up to a 5c/6a please. Any other tip welcome, places to eat / cool stuff to do on rest days etc! Thanks
there's loads in the campsite area and to the right or left of it also. if your staying in a cabin the nearest rock is about 30m away, yeah meters not minutes!! you can get hold of guidebook from the campsite reception and a printout of any new routes. highly recommend the Bunker area (about 400m left of campsite) for your grades, atleast 25 routes. the San Vito crag has been split up now the Bunker area is now under Scogliera Di Salinella - Central
I have had a couple of enjoyable trips there and climbing at those grades.....but, I don't recall any specific stand out routes. Perhaps, it's just the nature of lots of bolted limestone?
I thought the general standard of routes at 5/5+/6a was very high with lots of varied climbing. Wherever you go there should be good stuff at that grade. But, especially in the Bunker area.
That sector, however, is a sun trap, so save for a cloudy day if you can.
The last climb I did was called "welcome to Sicily" and that was one of the best.
I had a great trip to San Vito in the spring. My favourite routes were:
Natalie & Alicia at Zoo. Both are 6a+ but I thought they were easy enough for the grade
My friends did Giant Slalom 6a at Bunker and it looked great
Piu Facile 5a at Castello - hard for the grade but a great line
Roasting Meat 5c at Recinto an awesome arete
White Shark 5c also at Recinto. My favourite route of the week. Steep and juggy. Felt like 6a
El Schuppo 6a at Pineta is a great route and the 6a+ extension is all there - it just looks a bit intimidating
Lisa 6a+ at Rifiuti was fab and not too hard for the grade
Clean Me 6a at Rifiuti. Bit scrappy at the start but a great finish
Caldo Umido 6b at Cala Mancina was superb if you wanted to up your grade
Didn't really do a route I didn't enjoy. You should have a great time
Another vote for White Shark. It's a few years since we were there, but I can still remember that route well - highly unusual for a sport route!
Emma Twyford has become the first British woman to climb 9a with a redpoint of The Big Bang at Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales. Emma's ascent is only the third of this route, first climbed in 1996 by Neil Carson.