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Recommend Sport Climbing Spots near Font

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 Oogachooga 04 Mar 2019

Vieux-Chateau

Looking for recommended sport crags on the way to font and maybe 150 miles out of Font. Even something that is worth a slight diversion on the way back to Calais.

Thought Vieux-Chateau was a great grit-like location, that's my 2 cents on the subject.

cheers

Rob

 Carless 04 Mar 2019
In reply to Oogachooga:

Approx 45 mins from Bleau is the Viaduc des Fauvettes which is an old viaduct and a good laugh for a day https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/102840/fr/viaduc-des-fauvettes

Next closest would be Saussois, Parc, etc https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/102366/fr/saussois

and a place well worth considering on the way back is Les Andelys https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/102192/fr/val-saint-martin-les-andelys

Edited to add there's almost no shade at Val St Martin but there is at Connelles https://www.camptocamp.org/waypoints/102679/fr/connelles

Post edited at 14:21
OP Oogachooga 04 Mar 2019
In reply to Carless:

Cheers for the info, appreciate that. I'll check them all out if I get the chance.

Post edited at 17:51
 Adrien 05 Mar 2019
In reply to Oogachooga:

I wouldn't really bother with any sport crag within 150 miles of Font. While Saussois and nearby Surgy have some brilliant routes and are among the oldest developed crags in France with rich history, they're also the most polished bits of rock I've yet set foot on. Surgy maybe a little less bad, while Saussois has the nicer setting (it is actually rather pretty). Polish shouldn't be yoo much of a problem from 7a upwards though.

A bit further (~2 hour drive south) is Cormot, it's a more blocky type of limestone but features long committing routes (often 35m) with a somewhat alpine feel (lots of cracks, dihedrals etc). Historic crag too and not polished. Mostly routes in the 5s and 6s. On the other side of the valley is Baderne with routes starting at 7a up to 9a.

I really wouldn't bother with the Viaduc des fauvettes, I mean it's decent for locals but I'd rather do long easy circuits in Font. Parts of it do stay dry in the rain though (obviously).

There's some limestone quarries north of Paris like Saint Maximin but they look dreadful.

Haven't been to the chalk cliffs west of Paris (Andelys/Connelles) but they may be an interesting diversion, with the caveat that after winter holds tend to break so grades may not mean much! A new guidebook just came out, it's called Escalades dans l'Eure I think.

Post edited at 18:58
 DerwentDiluted 05 Mar 2019
In reply to Oogachooga:

St Vaast Les Mello

I paid this spot a visit last year, and though I wouldn't make a special trip it has a certain charm.

 Trangia 06 Mar 2019
In reply to Oogachooga:

The Arthaud guide book (in French) devotes two pages to a little 8m high cliff at La Muraillette de Glandelles where there are about 18 routes and a high level traverse. 

Never been there but it's stated as being about 6K south of Nemours a short way off to the left on the road towards Poligny, just before the village of Glandelles which is on the N7


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