/ Sardinia Questions
Hi, my wife and I will be traveling to Sardinia from the US for the first time this May and are looking for advice on where to stay. Has anyone been to the Ogliastra region? Ideally we would stay somewhere that would allow us to climb and go to the beach in the same day. We have been considering Arbatax
Also curious about what style of climbing to expect. Again, ideally, it would be great to find an region with multipitch in the 6c range and single pitch to 7c. Any advice or recommendations are greatly appreciated!
We stayed in the Lemon House
As the title implies - no longer run by Peter and Anne, but the climbing is excellent in that area. Check out their links.
Climb early and late in the day - it does get a bit warm during the day but you can find shady canyons. Beautiful area. Most building is banned close to the coast (historically because of pirates!) so you stay a few km inland. Fabulous place.
A few years back when I went we stayed in Cala Gonone in the north east, which gave us a great spot in terms of the range of climbing grades and location, from sea cliffs & Caves on the beaches to the south to multipitch 300ft routes in the mountains behind the village. the town/village has a great beach, and some lovely bars along the front and all your normal local amenities (including a climbing shop).
It's not really a mainstream tourist area so it wasn't very crowded.
I don't know what it's like for guidebooks now, but at the time we had to scrabble about with pretty confusing line topos with directions etc in Italian (which we didn't speak well). Made it a better holiday though as it forced us to converse with the locals at the crag/climbing shop as best we could which led to a couple of interesting nights in the bars
Enjoy - it's a great little island
Multipitch - check out the Surtana area. There's also stuff on the coast at Pedra Longa and Cala Goloritze. Be careful which guidebook you get - I think the more modern Pietra Di Luna ones only have single pitch, whereas the older ones have MP in them too. Definitely look up new topos online - google 'sardinia topo' or 'sardegna topo' as there's plenty of new routing.
The new Pietra di Luna guides are split into single pitch sport and multipiutch / trad books. however, looking through the guide there's a few sectors that have multiple 'single pitch' routes stacked on top of each other. so there is some multipitch in the sport book, but obviously no where near as much as the multipitch / trad book.
Santa Maria Naverrese made a good base for the Ogliastra region. There's even a small crag just above the port in town
Cala Gonone has accommodation, great ice cream and enough crag to last a week. And a passable beach. And pizza.
But take a short boat ride south from Cala Gonone and the beaches aren't just passable, they're magnificent. I'd highly recommend them. And sardinians definitely know how to cook, you can do way better than pizza.
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