UKC

Hey folks

Looking for any recommendations for Slovenia.  Three of us are driving out for 3 weeks at the end of the summer.  Would love any recommendations on routes, good campsites, nice huts to stay in, cool places to hang out and the best beer.

Long easy aesthetic routes.  Trad routes up to about E2/3, multipitch sport (up to about 6c).  We've got the german route on Triglav in our sights but would love other suggestions

We've got the "Popular climbing routes in Slovenia" guide and I'm going to buy the sport guide.  We're members (or will be) of the Austrian Alpine club for discount in huts etc.

Any other advice much appreciatted!

For bolted multi-pitch routes get this guidebook: https://planinskatrgovina.pzs.si/product/modern-multi-pitch-climbs

Expect choss and be ready to run it out over easy terrain.

Most popular routes are well equiped with in-situ pitons, but get a hammer and learn how to place and remove pitons.  Pitons are often the only reliable protection you can place. If you get off-route, they may be the only safe way to retreat.

Best pitons for our type of limestone are locally made "Jesenican" knifeblades, but are (almost) impossible to find nowdays. Second best are those made by MG Metal: https://www.climbready.eu/en/

Approaches can be long, descents can be tricky and chossy. Start early.

Do not limit yourselt to Julian Alps / Triglav area. There is a lot of nice climbing further to the east in Kamnik-Savinja Alps (Steiner Alpen in German). I suggest a week in Logar Valley https://www.logarska-dolina.si/en/

Expect choss.

Stay safe and have fun.

Brilliant thanks Zgemba.  We've some experience of placing pegs/pitons in Scottish winter and have a peg hammer.  Its always hard to tell the level of choss people mean when they say "chossy" but thanks for the fair warning!

Any routes you'd recommend?

Osp ? Campsite in the village,  had its own bouldering wall/woody in a barn when I went,  although that was 19 years ago 

I also remember there being a great fish restaurant just a bit further up the road.  The menu options were

Fish 1

Fish 2

Other assorted fish 

Is it chossier than the Dolomites?

Also, what's the best website / method of hooking up with local climbers? My partner and I will be in Slovenia a fair bit (aiming for 1 month in spring and autumn) each year working remotely and trying to get as much climbing done (mainly sport, based in Soca Valley near Tolmin).