/ Sport climbing - Austria
Good evening folks
Considering a sport (because we’re lazy) climbing trip to Austria this summer, after experiencing the Cham Jam last year we’re looking for somewhere a little less hectic.
We appreciate and realise there aren’t many destinations with as good an infrastructure/public transport as the Chamonix valley.
Hire cars are on the cards as we’ve all dinged that golden 25 years old, so that opens up a bit of self travelling potential.
Hoping to find a good base campsite within easy travelling distance of numerous crags, preferably multipitch but not essentially.
Any recommendations or alternative country suggestions are much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Good question! I've been very impressed by how geared up the tourist websites seem to be for sorting out just this type of trip but haven't done one myself.
This is one such website, which I reckon could serve as an excellent starting point for organising...
I'd happily base myself in the Oetztal valley for a climbing holiday. Great place.
This is a great area.
Tirol sport climbing guide will tell you everything, in English and German.
Pricey at £35 but maybe worth it.
Let me know where you find and i could email /WhatsApp images of the guide.
May even be tempted to post it to you if you promise to return it and pay for postage!!
I was highly impressed with the Urlkopf - http://bruederl.userweb.mwn.de/Klettern/Topos/Urlkopf.pdf - last year. South facing though, so not optimal in summer unless the weather's dire.
Peilstein - very close to Vienna, easily accessible and lots of variety!
The Langenfeld campsite is very good and within easy reach of lots of the Otztal crags , there's 3 flights a day from Manchester to Munich which is only a 2-3 hr drive, car hire not too expensive there as well, lots of topos on the climbers paradise site. The Sunderalm bar in Langenfeld is recommended, their own beer is 3.50 euro a pint.
For single pitch sports: Unteres Ennstal, several northfacing crags for hot days, and Peilstein (up to 3 pitches and close to vienna). For multipitch sport, theres many options higher up and equipped with alpine club huts, and Zillertal which you probably could do without car if you placed yourself in Ginzling.
There's even the grotty free camping in the layby just above Ginzling - although frankly I wouldn't want to spend more than a weekend there.
Wilder Kaiser. single pitch to 25 pitch sport. Plenty of campsites or other accommodation
Had a good scan through that ourselves, lots of good clear information on it isn’t there. Oztzal is the base we have ‘pencilled in’ as our base, a lovely looking campsite there too.
Thanks for the link nonetheless.
That’s a very kind offer of you sir.
I’d be more than happy to pay for the postage and ensure it’s safe return, always seems a bit of a waste to buy a guidebook for a week doesn’t it.
I’ll Pm you at a later date.
I think this has clinched it !
When did you last visit may I ask?
Would it be wise to book pitches on the campsite well in advance? Looks to be the sort of place that gets fully booked.
Local bar beer prices are much appreciated ;)
Hi, does it cover Süd Tirol aswell? How much in the Dolomites does it have? Pondering over buying it but fancied knowing how much it actually covered first.
I'm away for a couple of days at the moment, I'll respond when I return.
Indeed, I'm a slight addict to guidebooks and can't stand going places without one!
Email nearer the time and I'll post it.
I was there last June for a climbing and VF trip, and in Jan this year for some Ice Climbing. There was a destination article on UKC a few months ago by Chris Craggs https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/ukc/oumltztal_-_austrias_outdoor_capital-675142#x8686036
You can get topos for most of the crags from here:
or they have display boards at the crags themselves, and the tourist info centres will copy them for you. If you're going in peak season you may need to book the campsite, they responded very quickly when I tried them last year, If there's 4 of you going you may be able to find apartments that are good value. PM me if you need any other info.
In this series of articles, Tom Ripley interviews some well-known climbing partnerships to dig up their dirty secrets and find... Read more
Away from the mayhem of the Eastern Edges, the Roaches enjoys a unique atmosphere of its own. Amongst this mind-boggling cluster... Read more
An uncompromisingly technical climbing pack, the Montane Ultra 38+5 is stripped to its most efficient minimum. Designed to be as... Read more
Berghaus has joined forces with an international expedition team as part of a women's product development initiative.... Read more
Eliot Stephens has returned from a fantastic two week trip to Magic Wood where he climbed , a Bernd Zangerl 8B+. Eliot also... Read more