UKC

Is there good stuff at all levels (particularly stuff 5a and below...)?

Is it polished/does it get busy/when is the best time to go/is it possible to camp on the mountain and use the monastery cafe, or would I need to either camp in the valley or stay in the monastery hotel?

Has an English guidebook been published yet or do I need to bring a Spanish speaking friend?

Cheers

In reply to jhw:

There are plenty of slabby plods, particularly in the Gorros area, which are of interest more for their mountaineering, lost-in-a-sea-of-rock feel, and less for their interesting climbing.


In places, though the nature of conglomerate slabs means that everyone climbs each route a slightly different way.


on the easier, and most easily accessed routes, yes it can get very busy. Though if you are prepared to walk a bit, you will be along quite quickly.


Spring or late autumn


there is a campsite at the monastery, but I think it's not open during the winter. There are several refugios, ranging from extremely basic to very comfortable, all around the mountain. The traditional 'climbers' refuge is Sant Benet, it has a good vibe but is very basic. You can wild-camp/doss in a variety of caves around the mountain, make no noise and no one will bother you. The monastery in general is extorsionately expensive, most climbers avoid it.


AFAIK there is no english guidebook. There is a large variety of Spanish ones, mostly with reasonable information, though don't expect rockfax quality. There are also topos in all the refuges (and some local bars) where you can copy information by hand.

Have fun!

In reply to Alun:
typo * you will be alone

In reply to jhw:

Possibly by favourite Spanish destination. Routes of all grades. Campsite open after Easter I believe. We normally stop here: http://www.montserratvisita.com/b/?idmenu=43

Gorros guidebook is a good starter: http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Books-Maps-DVDs/Foreign-Climbing-Guid...

A few shots here to whet your appetite:

http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/northern_spain&page=all

Chris

In reply to jhw:

Thanks, this looks fantastic. Found some good resources here too:

http://www.manuelsuarez.org/INFOMONT/resesescalada/Deportiva/Cataluna/Monts...

http://rocktopo.com/templates/img/freetopos/CAMI_DE_L_ALSINA_FREE_DOWNLOAD....

The first source corroborates what you say about lots of easier, long climbs in big settings.

I suppose now I need to look into the logistics. The rifugios sound great but it would be helpful to know whether they allow food, or how else you get your food and water...and whether advance booking is possible (I gather at St Benet it isn't). I'll be taking a tent as well, just as backup.

Cheers again, this is great.

In reply to jhw: The climbing on conglomerate is interesting, you soon learn which colours of pebble you can trust. There is no problem using any of the monastery/hotel facilities bars restaurant etc I call it the "Holy Holiday camp" and there are plenty of daytrippers / pilgrims whom go up in the Cremallera funicular railway to justify supplying quality refreshments. The summit is worth a trip, i walked up and had to share it with a new age happy clappy sect who were hugging tress on the way up. Next time I will definately do the highly recommended via ferrata all the way to the summit.

In reply to jhw:
Remember it's Catalan country.

Good point Sir!

Hi, I stayed in a village on the other side of the towers, almost opposite the monastry. Can't remember the name just now, but there was a cafe where lots of local climbers would meet. Amazing, adventure climbing. Easy to get lost finding way to routes and off routes!! One of those places with a very special feel to it.

In reply to black elk:

Resurrecting this thread to highlight this comment. It sounds like you stayed in El Bruc, and went to Bar Anna - the "Pete's Eats" of Montserrat.

El Bruc is an inoffensive little town which is the usual launchpad to Montserrat Sur - good winter climbing but lacking the drama of the huge north-facing walls on the other side of the mountain (Diables, Aeri etc) which are pretty much the only places in Montserrat I will bother going to again.... apart from Bar Anna, which is, in my opinion, by far and away the best thing about climbing in Montserrat!

hey this website is also pretty useful for multipitch topos. unfortunatley for you the webpage and descriptions are all in catalan, but with a bit of google translating you can get the gist. the good thing is that it also gives you google map directions to the bas of the climbs.

hope it helps a bit

http://escalatroncs.wordpress.com/

In reply to jhw:
theres a camp sit to the east of the monastry, no facilities but theres no charge either, toilets available in the monastry complex near where the lift starts, there are some great rotes at 5a grade mostly slabby

In reply to taurus:
When are you going? Maybe we can meet up?

I'm going alone (end of March), like I also did some years ago.
Then I didn'd have problems meeting other climbers, but I think it was a bit later in the year, St Benet was open, I'm not sure if it will be this early. I'm bringing a tiny tent to put outside the refugio, just in case.

Cool guys, the local climbers. They spoke Catalan, I spoke English, no problem at all. Well, apart from some tiny misunderstandings causing me to lead a rusty old mix route carrying a minimum of ligth quickdraws only. Turned out he wanted to point out the first route he ever bolted, not the route he wanted me to climb. But that was the only mistake.

I'm a climbing instructor, but I haven't climbed for 3 years, so I want to stick to easy grades, bolts (or very easy mix).

If I can't find other climbers, I'll just be in the area, hiking & perhaps some easy bouldering.

Contact me direcly, if you'd like.

M