/ Toubkal and Todra - Morocco Questions

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Jim Houghton - on 23 Jun 2013
Hi all, wife and I have just booked 2 weeks in Morocco in August and are keen to climb Toubkal and do a bit of sport climbing. We only have one 20kg Ryanair bag between us though so won't take all the kit, can anyone confirm:

a) What kit you'd need for Toubkal in summer; from websites it looks like my alpine boots will be fine without crampons/axe?

b) If you can hire rock kit out there or worth taking the lot (rope and draws).

c) Any other unmissable sport climbing places for climbing in 6s and 7s?

Thanks, Jim
TJPOON - on 23 Jun 2013
In reply to Jim Houghton:

Hi Jim,

Last year I went to Todra but not Toubkal, I'll let you know what I think.

If you get talking to the right people you can borrow rope (and I presume draws) when you get there but it's not blindingly obvious so you may spend first hour talking to someone who can sort you out a rope. (We had all our gear with us so didn't come across this problem). The guys lending kit also can be hired out as guides (but I presume you won't need that).

Try get accommodation which includes three meals a day. Food in the gorge is expensive and there isn't much variety throughout.

For grade 6-7 todra is excellent though! 100s of climbing within walking distance, have a great time!

Also don't get hustled into doing or paying for anything, but haggle for everything and you'll usually get a better deal than you'd have initially expected.
Lil_Pete - on 24 Jun 2013
In reply to Jim Houghton:

Regarding Toubkal assuming you're taking the South Cwm route you could just plod up in a pair of trainers. Though pair of boots and walking poles will make things a lot easier - there's a lot of scree in the summer.

Imlil's amazing; love it to bits

Wasn't really looking for it, but didn't see anyone renting Sports Climbing kit - just the usual walking crampons and axes since I was there in Winter. Don't know if there's much bolted around in the area, there.
Jim Houghton - on 25 Jun 2013
In reply to Jim Houghton:

Thanks both. By the sounds of things, it might be better to try and fit a 60m and some quickdraws in. Is there a more interesting route up Toubkal?


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