UKC

Hoping the might of UKC might be able to help me out. I'm looking for somewhere to climb for a week in June with my boyfriend. Unfortunately, neither of us can drive which is quite limiting and I fear that the usual Mediterranean destinations (*cough* Kalymnos *cough*) will be a bit too hot in June.

So far we're considering La Turbie or perhaps Arco, but would really appreciate any more suggestions (or comments on the practicality of those two for summer climbing without a car). Ideally we'd like somewhere that:

- Has sport climbing with plenty to go at around ~6a - 7b (though bouldering suggestions would also be welcome!)
- Is not too hot for summer climbing
- Has accommodation (preferably not camping) within, say, a maximum 1 hour walk in.

I'm aware that somewhere in the Alps is probably the best bet for cool summer climbing, though I've never been and wouldn't know where to start looking.

Any suggestions? Thanks!

In reply to cjb1992:
Good question...

I'd guess there are hundreds of climbing areas in Europe that fit your requirements expressed so far.

How about make some guess which country? or better, which region in some country you've thought of visiting for some other reason? or what kind of rock?

In reply to cjb1992:
Hmmm, La Turbie. Faces due south and is on the Cote d'Azur. Might be a bit on the warm side.

Honestly, trying to do the whole Euro sports trip thing without a car is such a massive pain that I'd not go on holiday abroad this summer and spend the money on driving lessons! Particularly because in summer you have to chase shade, so maybe different crags in the morning/afternoon. Font is fine in summer if approached like this but it really needs a car...

In reply to seankenny:

Thanks, I hadn't considered the fact La Turbie was south facing. I thought we might get away with it, with historical temperatures putting it a few degrees cooler than Spain/Greece but facing South probably overrides that.

I appreciate having access to a car makes these things much easier, having done Costa Blanca and Frankenjura a few times with a friend, the extra flexibility is great. Though we've also had some great trips to Sardinia, Turkey and Greece without one. I think there are some great options around Mediterranean for car-less trips, these just seem to dry up once you look further North.

In reply to kenr:

I thought we were already being too picky with our no-car requirement! If we can be pickier...

- Any options in the Alps would be cool, as we've never been, but we're still only really after single pitch cragging / a spot of bouldering, nothing up too high.
- Similarly, something other than limestone would be a nice change.
- Cheap flights/accommodation/food would be a bonus (eg, not Norway!)
- We really have no preference regarding the country as we're just going for the climbing, though if we must be picky, we've been on a few non-climbing trips to France recently so avoiding (non-Alps) France would be a bonus.

But really, we'll take any suggestions we can get!

In reply to cjb1992:

We're looking into Ailefroide as potentially a good bet. Any comments on it's suitability? I'd imagine getting there from an airport might be the main challenge, but once we're there is looks OK?

In reply to cjb1992:

Oztal in Austria is a possibility, see https://www.oetztal.com/climbing-gardens , click on the indiviual crags for details, then the boxes with single pitch routes or multi pitch routes to get through to topos. Flights to Munich and car hire there are cheaper then France, as is food and beer when you get there. it's about a 2.5 - 3 hr drive from Munich on the autobahns.

In reply to cragtyke:

I was thinking exactly the same thing! You could do the main crags with the postbus and some walking as well. If you end up going, I can recommend the Ötztaler naturcamping https://www.oetztalernaturcamping.com/

In reply to cjb1992:
Ailefroide would be ideal...walk to crags in a few minutes. Train from a selection of airports to Briançon or Argentiere la Fessée I think and then bus.

In reply to earlsdonwhu:

Thanks everyone for your suggestions!

Ötztaler definitely looks a good shout, think it's between there and Ailefroide... Both look great, might have to plan a second trip

Thanks again for all the help!

In reply to cjb1992:

Ailefroide is lovely and more suited to multipich routes rather then harder single pitch routes (not sure what your after), most are slabby and in the 6's. you can walk to most of the good areas from the campsite, the bouldering is also excellent. Be aware that it is quite remote (being at the head of a valley) and if you have no car you will find it difficult to escape the valley (the nearest big supermarket is probably 30 mins down the road). Saying that there's so much to do there you may not care. La Berade, the other side of the range, is similar, closer to Grenoble but smaller and more remote (no bouldering but excellent road biking).

In reply to cjb1992:

Portland?

In reply to cjb1992:
Vratsa, Bulgaria
Fly to Sophia, Taxi to Vratsa

Mixed sport/trad

Take min 60m rope

Cheap as Fxxk to eat and drink

Hotels right below crags

Guide book available in UK

In reply to cjb1992:
Zillertal could work for you. Fly to innsbruck and take the train to Mayrhofen and then a short bus ride to Ginzling. Plenty of gasthof to choose from for lodging.

In reply to climbnplay: I've climbed in Paklenica, Croatia in June, there's always shade one side or the other. It's a decent walk in without a car but quite doable and someone might pick you up on the road into the park.

In reply to cjb1992:

Ailefroide is fantastic, but if you limit yourself to single pitch you'll miss out on the best the area has to offer. There are a few options for getting there - you can fly to Turin and get some combination of buses and trains, or you can fly to Marseille and hop on a train. You could probably also do Lyon but I've never looked into it.

L'Argentiere-la-Bessee is the closest station, from which you can either take a taxi, hitch a ride or take the bus (if your arrival coincides with the one bus a day). Once you're there, everything is easily walkable from the campsite.

In reply to cjb1992:

Arco would be just about ok and bearable in June if you like it warm but not perishing. It will have similar temperatures to September when I too myself am planning a trip there this year

J

In reply to payney1973:

I was going to say Bulgaria but I would suggest coming down to Veliko Turnavo but without a car to get to the crags maybe not!

We had our first large group out here in March, way too early as snow stopped play!

Orange House no 2 in progress and we are guiding there through the summer as the main crags are in the shade and with water close by to cool off in.

Sam Orange House

In reply to the.last.thesaurus:
. . . if you really really like slab climbing
. . . and slab climbing.

In reply to kenr:

You mean there are people out there who don't like slab climbing!?

How about . . .
Many climbers who are up to the grades of 7a + 7b (such as our Original Posters for this topic) _also_ enjoy other types of climbing.
And who might feel that a full week focused on slab climbing was ... overdoing it.

(Reason to learn to drive a car is that within 1.5 hours driving from Ailefroide is a remarkable variety of other rock types, bolted for sport climbing).

Ken

In reply to Sam Mayfield:

I know Sam, its me Lee Payne lol I was one of the instructors, if they had a car I would defo suggest VT.

Hope youre well, Ive emailed you back ref Orange house.