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Wyndcliffe Quarry info

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 bpmclimb 13 Aug 2020

Couple of minor WQ route/logging issues ...

The entry for One in the Oven  One in the Oven (6a+)  now means just the 6a+ left-hand version (bridging allowed). I've added a separate climb entry for the right-hand (6c) version, as it's so different in line and grade. If you want an accurate log (and can be bothered), consider deleting  ascents of the 6c version and re-logging them.

On a related note, can we agree not to give every possible linkup a separate entry? We'll end up cluttering up the crag page with hundreds of extra "routes". Starting up Hong Kong Wedding but finishing up the easy top corner of Come to Mother is just escaping a route, not climbing a new one. Details like that can go in the personal notes.

N.B. the link up of CTM to HKW is a different matter: it's a genuinely good and logical way up the wall, there's substantial climbing in both halves, and people climb it deliberately rather than by accident. 

Thanks

Post edited at 19:32
OP bpmclimb 14 Aug 2020
In reply to bpmclimb:

BTW I came across an instructor yesterday at WQ running various activities with a couple of clients. Using bolts for anchors, he had pre-rigged a group abseil on the Upper Lift; then left it to go and do some bottom roping on the Lower.

The bolts he used were on Tight Man's Tips/Better In Than Out and No More Dream Cafe; which made those three routes unavailable; also taken out were the traverse routes Winging It and the (two star) Pine Processionary, which we had thought we might climb that day.

I had a word, and he was very good about it; but I thought it was worth underlining on here that WQ is NOT a suitable venue for group abseil: it's far too popular for it to be reasonable to "reserve" several adjacent climbs (especially when leaving them for use later in the day). It also involves significant hazards; e.g. dislodging stones onto the lower terrace, and tripping on rigging ropes running across the upper terrace.

Hopefully, that doesn't seem unduly critical .....

 nikoid 14 Aug 2020
In reply to bpmclimb:

Your approach sound perfectly reasonable to me.

But did the instructor actually do anything to remedy the situation? 

OP bpmclimb 14 Aug 2020
In reply to nikoid:

> But did the instructor actually do anything to remedy the situation? 

He said he would have been happy to move the ropes if I'd gone to find him to ask. TBH I was tempted to unclip everything and leave it in a pile, but decided to wait till his abseiler was down and then have a chat.

 cwarby 14 Aug 2020
In reply to bpmclimb:

Perfectly reasonable.

Interesting risk assessment given the situation.

Chris

1
 The Pylon King 14 Aug 2020
In reply to bpmclimb:

Jesus, it seems that there are more instructors out there than climbers nowadays.

2
 The Pylon King 14 Aug 2020
In reply to bpmclimb:

More importantly, which routes were they going to destroy with their abseiling?

1

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