UKC

Hi there,
I see Jagged globe only do Aconcagua in the winter months. Is it possible to do it in the summer months from end of June till September? With Jagged Globe?
Ciao Damien.

In reply to Damien Green:

whose winter?
They're winter (which is our summer) or visa versa?

tom

In reply to Damien Green: Aconcagua during the southern hemisphere winter of May to Sept gets a lot of snow and extreme winds aside from being very cold at almost 7000m. Whilst not impossible it is rarely climbed and quite difficult to reach where the normal BC is situated. I doubt if any guiding co. offers it.Search the net (try Rudy Parra`s co.He may give it a go but I suspect youd be on your own)-It is 7000m in winter are you up for that?

In reply to Damien Green: Hi there,
Thanks guys for your replies. I do realise that our summer is there winter but didnt know how cold etc it gets up there during this time. Its the only decent enough time I have off work to go on long trips thats all.
Ciao Damien.

In reply to Damien Green:

Damien, I get the impression you haven't got a lot of experience with mountains, otherwise you'd realise that at nearly 23,000 feet, the top of Aconcagua is going to get pretty damned chilly regardless of the season.

Without wishing to put you off a big trip, I suggest a few slightly lower mountains to see how you cope with long days and high mountains. If you've never been up at altitude, it's very difficult to assess how you'll get on.

In reply to Damien Green:

Extreme cold and winds are the norm for Aconcagua during their summer months - heading out there in July is a very serious undertaking. I summited during February 2002 and we experienced -23 degs C at 0500 on summit day at Camp 3.

During the course of the trip I saw a number of people with acute frostbite and Altitude Sickness carried off the mountain in a helicopter, mostly because they had under-estimated the weather and the arduous nature of the climb. Although it isn't technical the slip potential between Camps 2 and 3, and on the traverse to the Canaletta on summit day, is significant.

So, not only do you have to be prepared for extreme conditions, but you must ensure your winter skills are up to par as well. If you are looking for a hard trip during the summer months there are some great treks/climbs in Peru and other South American countries.

Good luck

Graham

In reply to Damien Green: Theres a Australian based tour company that run the trip in August - you'll need to be on top of your game with winter & altitude experience to be able to join the team, plus it'll set you back about US$4000...
Check it out at www.fieldtouring.com - havent been on a tour of theirs mind, so don't have a clue about their credentials but they look like they might know what they're doing.

SS

In reply to Damien Green:
Try contacting Jagged globe direct.

See http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/jg/contact.html

I have found them to be helpful in the past.

In reply to Damien Green: Hi everyone,
Im not very experienced in the mountains but know my geography quite well. I have never been above 4000metres. Im doing a Alpine Introduction course with Jagged Globe in 10 days time and am thinking if all goes well in this course of doing future trips with this company.
Im also joining the Canarian Mountaineering federation after the course.
Thanks any way for all your info. How was the breathing Graham when you summited Aconcagua and the difficulty in its tecnical side like? I have always been fascinated with mountains but just recently have become more involved with em out here.
Ciao everyone and Graham would like to stay in touch with you on your expeditions!
Regards Damien.

In reply to Damien Green: Also almost in sane have you been on any Jagged globe trips/expeditions?
Regards Damien.

In reply to Damien Green:

Damien

Breathing rate will depend on your individual fitness level and rate of acclimitisation. I've actually felt better at 6,500m in Nepal than at 4,000m in the Alps - as a result of a relatively longer period of acclimitisation.

The big difficulty on Aconcagua is that Base Camp is at 4,300m and yet is only 20 odd miles from the road head. So it is tempting for people to rush in, only to succumb to the altitude and find themselves in the doctor's tent/rescue helicopter. We spent 5 days acclimitising either in the Horcones valley or in the hills around Penitentes before moving up to Base Camp.

Technically the climb is a long hard walk, the main objective difficulties are between Camps 2 and 3 where the slope reaches 45 degrees in places, and on the summit day. We had snow on the path across to the Caneletta which required some delicate footwork for about 600m, above a slope which slid away for 1000m+. The path was relatively easy here but did require confidence in using an axe/ski pole to conduct a traverse. The Canaletta is normally a scree slope but when we were there it was full of snow and became just a very long/steep walk.

Everyone is knackered on the summit - even the guides, as it is a good 7+ hours from Camp 3. The return trip takes about 3 hours, so you have a long day. I have heard of groups taking up to 15 hours.

Good luck

Graham

In reply to Graham:
Hi Graham I'm doing Aconcagua next feb and Iam worried about my feet and the cold could you recommend any footwear, I have a pair of asolo plastics but not sure whether they are up to it
Thanks Gav

In reply to Gav Parker:

Hi Gav,

Regarding footwear on Aconcagua, take the best that you can afford. It can get really cold up there.
Something along the lines of Scarpa Inverno's with a high altitude inner boot should be ok.

There is quite a few hire gear places in Mendoza if you need to hire some, prices are around US$70 (for duration of the expedition) you'll also need to leave a security deposit or around US$100 by credit card.

I would recommend Casa Orviz for hire gear, they generally have a much larger range of gear to choose from, and are good people.

good luck on Acon
dan

In reply to Gav Parker: I summitted in Feb 02 and wore Scarpa Vegas (Invernos) with HA liners - feet were cold for the first couple of hours on summit day, before the sun comes up, but other than that they were good boots.

In reply to Gav Parker:

Gav, sorry about delay in responding, just got back from a trip.

Wear the warmest boots you can lay your hands on! I wore Koflach plastics with ordinary liners, Thorlo winter socks and Yeti gaiters. Others in the party had also invested in High Altitude Liners - definitely worth the expense. Summit day is the time when you will really need it as before the sun comes up it wil be bitterly cold and that is when you will need those warm liners/socks and very warm gloves - down/good quality synthetic mitts are the best.

Stay away from leather boots with warm liners - definitely not warm enough and if you get snow fall (as we did - lots), the boots will get wet and freeze. Aconcagua has a reputation for being a dry, cold, windy mountain, which is the justification people will use for using leathers - don't believe it. Snow has been a significant factor out there over the last couple of seasons.

Good luck

Graham

In reply to Gav Parker:

Boots plus some other points:

Footwear: I sumitted in December '96, wearing Scarpa Vegas (with one thin/one thick pair of good socks and yeti gaiters). This was fine, note it was pretty dry with not much snow about. Important point is not to get/wear them too tight as if you're going via the normal route the climbing isn't technical and circulation is probably more important.

Acclimatisation: Reinforcing a point above, if at all possible spend some time at altitude beforehand. It's very dependent on the person, but people that struggled on our trip were the ones who arrived in South America, went straight in to Base Camp and on up. I'd had a few weeks in Peru/Bolivia beforehand and didn't have any problems.

Turn-around time: The summit day can be a long day. Set yourself a realistic turnaround time and stick to it. If you're not at the top by that time turnaround and head back.
We spent the night before our summit day looking for a party who hadn't done this, the result being 4 of them spent the night on the hill without tents leading to nasty frostbite, hospitalisation etc.

Technical Challenge: The normal route isn't particularly a technical climbing challenge (note it is a big mountain and shouldn't be underestimated). However, if you think you want technical climbing challenge you might want to think about something lower and harder. Worth a thought.

In reply to Anonymous:
Thanks a lot will take that on board and I've decided to hire the best gear I can get. How fit do you need to be?
Ta Gav

In reply to Damien Green: Hi Damien, Lots of stuff on this subject being one of the seven so Ill keep it short, be waqy is to get a flight to Mendoza via BA then contact Daniel Alessio and join his expeditions it's who JG use anyway you will just save some ££££ and he is a fine guy

In reply to Dave:
I expect to be in Mendoza the last days of august.
I´d like to climb Aconcagua by the normal way by skies.The first days of September. It´s a polar conditions expeditions although, the notices of argentina guides are that this winter is quite mild if you compare with the last winters . The notices of comercial australian trip are bad. It´s not possible do it because there are mamy few customers and the expedition´s costs rise too much.
I´m trying book "Plaza Mulas" shelter B.A for ten days,(cook man,food and fuel incluyed)1.000US$ costs all.
But I need two fellows more for paying this price, minimum three.
I´m spanish mountain skier and climber that I made classical winter peaks in Alps, Pyrinees and Atlas. My polar experience is made difficult cliffs of ice in Scotland between December and January with vivacs base walls incluyed. I´m looking forward to having notices from you. I´m sorry about my poor english. Felix
contact e-mail: [email protected]

In reply to Felix:

Be careful about Park regulations. A friend of mine did it in September a few years ago and nearly got thrown in jail. It was also bloody cold, around -30C.

I doubt the normal route will have enough snow on it for skis, particularly in a dry winter. Don't know about the Polish Glacier ?

North of Aconcagua, the valley to the south of Mercedario (6770m) is the Rio Colorado and some peaks on the south side could be good on skis - La Mesa, La Ramada 6400m, north face etc. But it is harder to get to, especially in winter. Access from Barreal.

D

In reply to Felix: Hi Felix, Thats a problem for the normal route in summer for sure, you could carry short one's for the top section on the way down, i could have used them this year most of the way, lots of snow also listern to the guys comming down from the summit re snow conditions. As you say Arctic conditions in September ! I'm Taking some guys back to Aconcagua early 2005, Joining my buddy Kalsang sherpa in Nov taking some novice guys to Everest BC and Kalaptha. So can't join you but learning spanish just now, lets keep n touch
Dave

In reply to Gav Parker:

Gav,

Fitness: Depends what level of fitness you're starting from, but generally get as fit as you can. The fitter you are the more pleasant an experience it will be. Arm strength isn't an issue on the normal route. Stamina to keep going for long days on the hill (particularly the summit day) with a pack on your back is what's required. If you can during the months beforehand, get out in the hills for long days walking (8 hours plus) or better still several consecutive days. Running and some general all round exercises will also help.