UKC

Hi, i will once again be producing fairly regular alpine climbing and mountaineering conditions reports throughout the summer season. These will be based in and around Chamonix, but i do include information from further afield as well, and much of the general conditions information will apply to the whole western alps. 

My first report is out now:

https://youtu.be/sMfHY9VAb4k?si=OpLC24U9IarpKv-7

Great video thanks.

Does anyone know what conditions are like up on the glaciers in the Zermatt region (Breithorn, Bishorn, Monte Rosa area) or know where I could find condition reports please? 

while i havent been to any of them myself recently, the conditions are likely to be very similar to that which you see in my video of the upper vallee blanche. the elevations are similar and they have had a similar amount of snow in the valais this winter to chamonix. so expect some obvious big crevasses, but overall not too many difficulties

I read a report from an experienced Swiss climber this week climbing the Weissmies, Saas Grund.  She said, crevasses are already visible, open, and it is earlyish in the season for this.

Great video and info, thanks for that, we are heading out today and looks like things are changing fast, shame as we have been so psyched, hoping things hold on for another week or so, we were aiming for the Kuffner but guess we may have to change plans now. any updates on the Frendo? was hoping to get on this as soon as we arrive

There are a couple of recent reports on the Frendo on camptocamp, with photos. Bear in mind that freezing level is currently around 5000m(!)

Thanks James, yes, I have seen that, we are hopeful that we can get on it and do the top section during night/early hours, I think we should be safe once on the ridge itself, crossing to base of route in the morning may be sketchy though, however we may change plans once out and have spoken to the guides office.

We have just climbed the Frendo over the 24th/25th. Conditions were OK, we went left at the top which involved a few loose rock areas but overall still OK. I think going right wouldn't have the loose rock but maybe more black ice. Decided to bivi to make the most of what little over night freeze there was and left at 4.30am. I last climbed the route in 2013 and amazed how much it has changed, there is a lot more exposed rock on the upper section that used to be snow/ice. 

It looks too hot to me for that sort of route until after Thursday's bad weather goes through.  Thereafter,  if it remains in condition,  it will probably be cold enough for a few days,  although I don't know if the weather will be good enough or if stuff will be falling from the sky. Good luck,  hopefully you get a conditions window. 

My latest conditions report is out now, a lot has changed (for the worse) in the last week or so unfortunately...

https://youtu.be/KR2qt5SQ198?si=CTIOr3SVNew4j7Oo

It has been over for the frendo for a long time. people may still be getting up it, but it is a mess. people need to stop getting fixated on certain 'ticks' and adapt to the conditions. The frendo may well become confined to the history books before too much longer. 

My latest report is out now:

https://youtu.be/wPuw1WPtscI?si=jgwJ7N0ARvp5pihO