UKC

Hi,

I'm heading to the Alps this weekend for a few weeks - Chamonix, Monte Rosa, Saas, etc.

A lot of my planned objectives involve glaciers and snow peaks, but I'm now wondering about the heat and what's that done to conditions.

I know it's been warm generally and that this has had an effect on crevasses, iciness, and so on.

But looking at the forecast for next week, the freezing level is forecast at or even above 4000m for a number of days in a row.

For this with previous experience - how important is the overnight refreeze to snow conditions, in particular safety of glacier crossings but also passage on snow slopes?

Is it worth considering a reorientation towards rock routes until/unless it gets colder?

I was out last year in warm temps and most glaciers I was on were very dodgy in my opinion. There’s only so many times you can stick your leg in a crevasse and laugh it off. Not keen on repeating the same experience any time soon. Snow slopes were dodgy too, nearly fell in a bergschrund when one collapsed under me. I’m not particularly experienced and maybe I’m too risk averse now for any real alpinism so I might be over stating it. If/when I go back it will be much earlier in the year

Eep - if you are too risk averse then I am too. That doesn't sound fun.

We're out in the Alps touring round for the summer and have got much less done up high than hoped recently. It's been bloody hot and there's quite a lot of unsettled weather around. I'm feeling rather twitchy about loose rock, unfrozen snow and unreliable forecasts so we have been doing quite a bit of high rock routes from huts instead, at the moment we're just working our way accross Valais. That said, I know we are very risk averse and people are getting stuff done. We usually get our alpine stuff done earlier in the year, so don't really have any other Augusts to compare this to, but I'm feeling happier on rock routes! We have the Plaisur Sud and West guides which are amply filling our time!! Can highly recommend the Dalmazzi hut above Courmayeur and the Turtmann hut in West Valais as well as Wiwanni hut(kind of by Saas). I'm sure someone with more experience/balls (!!) will be able to give more hope on the snowy stuff  

You need to check with the local guides office or hut guardian to find out about local conditions.

There was a lot of snow last winter and although the hot summer has ended some routes early, the glaciers and snow ridges have generally been in good condition. I did the Fiescherhorn and Jungfrau last week and all was good.

I've done 12 4000ers this year and had no glacier problems.

Thanks Jenny, that's really useful!

Cheers Pero, I am starting to raise those queries as well. Thank you.

Useful weekly updates here. http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/ac2/news/chamonix-condtions Chamonix area only but overall trends are similar for other areas. Local guides and hut guardians will know best and its in their interest that you stay safe.

As an acclimatisation trip, you could look at the Domes de Miage. Long walk to the Conscrits hut. Then gentle snow ridge up to 3600m.

We did that 5 weeks ago, so check the up to date conditions. 

from another thread

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/expedition+alpine/another_first_alpine_tr...

With the freezing level that high up there will be a lot more danger of (big) rockfalls.

Conditions are, on the whole, not too bad for the time of year and much better than the same time last year. Higher up the snow cover is okay and the glaciers seem to be in reasonable condition but on steeper slopes the ice isn't far away. Sharpen your crampons and be prepared to place ice screws if in doubt. For example, coming down from the Grandes Jorasses a few days ago was okay despite it being south facing and late in the day.

The 0 degree isotherm isn't as important as one might think as the main effect overnight is radiative cooling so as long as the sky is clear there should be a decent refreeze. 

You'll be able to do snow routes but it will probably involve an early start and aiming to be back down not long after midday.

As already mentioned don't hesitate to ask the huts for information on conditions. 

You perhaps ought to review how you choose Alpine routes, how you navigate a glacier and the time of day you climb.

Last year we crossed some potentially nasty glaciers, e.g. on the way to the Dufourspitze, Barre des Ecrins and Alphubel, but there were no instances of even a foot disappearing.

Rather than being risk averse, you may taking some major risks. 

Climbed Dufourspitze via the normal route on thursday from the monte rosa hut. Left at 2.30am and everything was frozen well and seemed in good condition to me. Returning back down prior to midday it was not very slushy and did not loose any legs down crevasses....but did witness a bit of ice cliff on the other side of the valley shear off on the way back to the hut. 

Thanks everyone for the info and thoughts. Really useful and much appreciated.

We did the Domes de Miage traverse at the start of the month and it's very icy in places along the ridge so care was needed. One point was particularly sketchy! We also saw a lot of rock fall around the Aiguille de La Bérangère area towards the end of the traverse. We decided to bail on Tondu as well because of the amount of rockfall that was clattering down around us!

The walk in is brutal, but it is a great little hut and fairly quiet too.

We've got some very tricky conditions here in Cham. V. open glaciers with several ladders added on Mont Blanc du Tacul side of MB. St Gervais side closed cos of danger.

In the last few days car size blocks have come off the s.face of the Midi and the Point Lachenal, with the latter necessitating a rescue. 

I also note 2 experienced alpinists were killed in a fall descending from the summit of the Weisshorn. An inquiry is underway.

be careful out there.

John C