UKC

Has anyone been recently or is in Chamonix?  In general what is the snow and glacier situation after this long period of warming weather.  The forecast is looking cooler again especially up high but without being there it is difficult to get a feel for whats working. 

We were thinking of doing Cosmiques but that is inadvisable now.  There is a comment in the log book for Petit Charmox "The boulder field was very active and the glacier melting" which is again concerning but not sure how accurate this is...Dent Du Geant is spitting rocks into the Salle and feeing sketchy. Cannot find much information about Helbronner area and theres a cable car out of action!

Our initial plan was to hike up supplies and bivvy up high in Helbronner and tick off the easy routes then work towards something harder but most these routes require a "stable snow pack" and a glacier crossing so not certain if this is advisable.  If anyone could advise some PD - AD+ routes on mixed terrain which are in currently that would be much appreciated (except Aig Moine/Verte).  We have guide books for Ecrins but have not climbed there before - love some suggestions. 

Thanks!

Evertone I know in Cham is doing rock routes. Plenty to do on the Envers, the Peigne and above the Argentiere hut and it’s all fairly accessible. The stuff above the Geant Glacier is obviously harder to get to with the Midi upper section closed.

If you want mixed PD-AD routes, your best bet would be the Swiss 4,000ers. Conditions there are better as they’re higher. 

The Cosmiques was no longer a mixed route before the rock fall - it was completely dry. Gives you an idea of conditions. 

User Steve D is there or thereabouts and will have been doing stuff in your grade range I think, you could message him?

will do... thanks