UKC

All else aside like acclimisation,weather,avalanche,technical savy etc. Which routes can often be done without major crevasse danger. I know conditions change year to year but any ideas? I am considering Mont Blanc the normal route,Bishorn,Weismess,Castor? Many thanks.

In reply to slow&steady: Why not advertise on here for partners? All of the above have potential glacier problems, excepting the South Ridge of the Wesmeiss.

In reply to Jasonic: Thanks for the input. I will try again on the partner appeal. I have fixed dates in the Alps of the 7 - 15th of July do to other family trips/commitments.

In reply to slow&steady:
The gouter route is usually (according to most what I read/hear) safe regarding crevasses and was fine when I did it solo.

On the way to Castor from Zermatt two years ago we encountered major crevasses! There were MANY holes in the trodden path...

Since you are mentioning mostly very easy routes (and not some harder rock oriented climbs which might actually be more safe in relation to objective dangers) you might be able to entertain yourself on the Aiguille Rouges side of Chamonix. Eg. Belvedere or the Crochues. Maybe even Buet if its not too boring (a long plod but a nice view).

In reply to slow&steady:
Castor is doable as a solo but it does have crevasses. When we climbed it (in a very snowy spell) there were several monster crevasses on the approach; easy to bypass, but who knows what was lurking underneath the path. There is also a small bergschrund on the face as well. It is easily stepped across when snowy but may open up in late season.

In terms of climbing, in good weather (which you will probably want if soloing!) it's basically Grade I Scottish all the way, so no worries there.

Breithorn is a non-serious alternative nearby, but is a bit short and somewhat boring. The view's good, though.

In reply to slow&steady:

Hi

Like PeterDK I've soloed MB by the Gouter route and I too think that the crevasse danger is minimal but it is always there and I did the route many years ago so don't know how things might have changed. I was sufficiently fit that I wasn't left alone on the mountain by other parties zipping up and down and I wouldn't rely on others for my own safety but if you are fit and confident then MB is probably doable. The biggest problem it seems is the mountain's popularity - the Gouter hut wasn't too crowded when I did it. Apart from a test of one's altitude fitness there is not much else to recommend the route. I did initially fancy doing it via the Bionnassay ridge (not soloing) but that didn't happen. If I recall correctly the wind speed was 70 km/hr and it wasn't entirely pleasant - ensure you have something to cover your face! Oh and I think I did have a duvet jacket - with reference to previous thread.

Steve

In reply to 4712topo:

A few years ago, 2003 I think, I was in the Tête Rousse hut. We had arrived late because of my lamentable lack of fitness and also coming straight up from sea level a day before and so were sitting chatting when all the others had gone to bed. The door opened and in came a clearly very fit young local who joined in the chat.

His partner had let him down so he said he was just going to wait to midnight then head off to solo Mont Blanc on his own - by the Gouter route. The guardian seemed to know him and went to bed without charging him... clearly he was a competent climber who knew the ropes. He said he anticipated no problems except he was a bit worried as the wind was getting up and this could make it tricky on the final ridge to the summit.

My mate had done the same route solo many years before and didn't find it hard... so that makes two others who've done this route solo.. plus a warning of what to watch out for.

In reply to PeterDK: Thanks for the input. It seeems like Mount Blanc the normal route might be the ticket. Plenty of people around as well. So if I end up solo this time around atleast I'll get a great peak in.

In reply to Bruce Hooker:

The same thing for me - I found myself without climbing companions and decided to give it a go. It howled all night and didn't look like it was on so we all slept in. When I discovered about 7.0 am that guided parties were setting off as the wind had abated a little I too decided to go. The wind was the main problem but apart from that no other problems. And I wasn't even the last on the summit

Steve

In reply to slow&steady:

Having said what I did and read your profile I would point out that although this route is possible it is also the most crowded in the world (probably), very hard to get a place in the Gouter hut and a long slog from the Tête Rousse - we just went up to the Aiguille du Gouter as we had given up on trying the Bionnassay as I was too unfit - and it was a real circus. So it being doable, if you are fit and acclimatized, doesn't mean it is necessarily the best option.

There are often threads asking the same question which usually demonstrate how few alpine routes are safe to solo due to the glacier crossings - finding a partner is clearly the best option. I often find myself in the same situation as you, but 10 years older, and have the same reticence concerning finding a younger partner on internet and then being "blown off"! Living in Cyprus can't help either from the climbing club point of view, but I reckon finding a partner is the best line to pursue, soloing in the Alps is limited unless you are at a very high level, and even then the glacier's are always dodgy.

In reply to 4712topo: Thanks! - Ill plan for the wind and cold.

In reply to Bruce Hooker:

I was in a similar situation few years ago. My partner had to fly back home and I still had few free days left. I took the last train up to Nid d'Aigle and walked from there to the Gouter hut. I waited there an hour or two so that the weather would get colder. After the sunset it was well below freezing level and I walked to the summit.

I think it's a very doable solo if you are in good shape AND well acclimated. And with a good and reliable weather forecast. The summit ridge is not a nice place when the wind blows so hard that you have to crawl on all fours. And walking down from the Vallot hut to the Gouter hut without a rope would be a nightmare in a snowstorm.

Weissmies? Solo? Maybe from the Almageller hut but definitely not from the Hohsaas. This happened last time when I was there:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=194645&v=1#x2833252

In reply to slow&steady:

La Luette is a small but lovely peak near Arolla, fantastic views and no crevasse danger if you follow the SE ridge. A traverse up the NE ridge and down the SE ridge might be possible but I couldn't find a grade or description for the NE ridge when I was there so thought it better not to try to solo it!

I would have though gran paradiso is fairly devoid of crevace problems and is a good mountain to acclimitise on

Pretty sure gran paradiso was crevasse free, but cant remember exactly... was a pretty easy snow plod, would be a good solo.

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

When I did Gran Paradiso in 2006, there was a crevasse with a ladder over it, not too far from the summit

In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

While not particularly creavasse-ridden, both normal routes to Gran Paradiso may have some crevasse related danger, particularly the one from the Chabod Hut (that's also the better of the two). Two years ago a French guide who was soloing the route fell into a crevasse and had to be rescued. All things summed up, I would not suggest anyone going solo to GP.

A route that can be soloed in absolute safety and while not particularly difficul is enjoyable and offers tremendous views is Petit Mt. Blanc, a small subsidiary peak just SW of Mt. Blanc.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=298934&v=1#x4426374