UKC

Hi All,

Am after some advice from people concerning down jackets for high altitudecold mountaineering. Need a jacket for Denali (May-June) but also want something I can possibly use for Himalayan peaks. The main use will be during cold belays, around camp and summit day.

Do I go for 650 or 800 fill?
Do I go for a jacket around 0.9-1.0kgs or 1.4-1.5kgs?

What jackets do people recommend?

My list so far is:

TNF - Himalayan or Summit Parka
Mountain Hardware - Absolute zero or Sub Zero Parka
Marmot - 8000m, Greenland Baffled or Mountain down jacket
RAB - Neutrino Edge, Summit Jacket or Exped Jacket
Feathered Friends - Rock and Ice Parka, Icefall Parka

If anyone can help to shorten the above list or add ones I've not thought of, would be a great help!

In reply to ThereAndBack:
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I'd forget stitch through construction like Neutrino Edge. You really need something warmer for Denali.

I had a ME Annapurna and was very happy with it. So I'd recommend something similar. Yes, it's big and heavy but it does get fairly cold there... And you are going to stay there for a long time so warm jacket is one of the best things you can take there.

In reply to ThereAndBack:

Really its personal choice. There is no right or wrong. Would sesond a "stich through" should be avoided. Comes down to your build and which jacket fits you. Maybe worth a look for jackets with pertex waterproof outer like the old RAB Butura.

In reply to ThereAndBack:

I was in Alaska in May last year and took a Rab Neutrino Extreme. Light, box wall construction, 300 odd grams of 750 fill power down, Water resistant outer. I'd say it was pretty much perfect for the conditions. Not too heavy to climb with either.

I just happen to be selling it too. Its in "as new condition" (had only three weeks use whilst in AK, with no marks, scuffs, stains, tears. Size XL. If you're interested then email me and we can discuss prices....

G

In reply to ThereAndBack: I've used a mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero Parka on Denali/ Cho Oyu, very warm indeed, and a good long cut. friends used Mountain Equipment Redline (made to order), seemed a bit lighter/ less warm than Mountain Hardwear parka.

Some may be slightly heavier, but the energy you save on summit day by being warm will be worth carrying it if it means you can get to the top.

Rab Expedition down jacket is also good but stiff and heavy.

TNF Himalayan Parka is good but expensive, although it is on sale reduced to £300 at the moment at gaynors in the Lakes: http://www.gaynors.co.uk/thenorthface/cgi-bin/trolleyed_public.cgi?action=s...

Hope that helps.

Rhys

In reply to Rhys Jones: "Bask" gear is also worth looking at, Peglers have some usually in stock.

I have TNF Himalayan and my girlfriend the FF Rock and Ice Parks. Subjectively, I think the FF is the superior jacket in terms of warmth and hood design and packability. I dont like the new Marmot down jackets, again thats just my personal opinion. I absolutely adore my Rab neutrino jacket. If they had the same quality in their warmer down jackets, I would definately have a look.

In reply to ThereAndBack: I wore a Rab Andes on Denali last may, and it was perfect for the conditions. I also saw a few Yankee doodles with D.A.S parkas and Wild things synthetic fill jackets.

In reply to ThereAndBack:

Currently I think its between the TNF Himalayan and the FF Icefall Parka, with me edging towards TNF only because I don't know enough about FeatherFriends.
I would go for RAB but the Summit jacket is only 660+EU 725+US fill power.

Next question is sizing with the TNF Himalayan!? am 5ft 11, 90kg and want to be able to fit 1 or 2 water bottles inside plus wearing layers underneath. Is large going to be big enough?

In reply to ThereAndBack:

Most importantly you should ensure that the jacket has enough room to carry your fellow expedition members' gear - in case things get tough and they have to invoke 'Plan C'

I would give FF more of a chance. They are a company that specifically makes down gear, kind of like PHD in the UK. Just google FF icefall.

I tried to add the link but wouldnt work

There is a Large brand new FF Icefall on ebay US at the moment.

In reply to ThereAndBack:

I took TNF Himalayan jacket to Denali last year when I did the traverse (West Butt to Muldrow), wore it twice in high camp and summit day but it did the job and was a good fit over my other layers.

Another choice is the feathered friends volant jacket which our US guides seemed to prefer, bit more reasonably priced. Would also recommend investing £/ time in getting the right gloves/mitt combo and face mask as well.

Enjoy..

In reply to ThereAndBack:

Am now going around in circles and slowly coming back to Feathered Friends (FrontPoint jacket, IceFall or Rock and Ice parka).

But how cold is Denali likely to be??? do I need something like the Rock and Ice parka??

I am thinking about doing something in the Himilaya's next year, and would like to get a jacket that would be suitable for both trips. But with Denali being 'one of the coldest mountains', how much colder would a 8000m himilayan peak be??

Thanks

Colin

In reply to ThereAndBack: An 8000m peak may not be much colder temperature wise, but you will feel colder as you are likely to be much more hypoxic at 8000m instead of 6000m. Obviously it changes a lot from day to day, it might be -40 on denali and -20 on say, Shishapangma. To that end I would just recommend getting the warmest one you can, which will cover both bases. Denali is pretty cold, I would say similar to Cho and Everest, but like i said you may need warmer mitts etc really high as you'll be suffering a lot more.

Also, if you get a really good jacket, then you'll only need to buy down salopettes when it comes to the high peaks, instead of shelling out for a one piece suit.

Hope that helps.