UKC

Hi,
Considering doing a couple of weeks with a guide in the summer. Eiger - Mittelligi Ridge and Matterhorn Hornli Route. I've climbed up to grade 3 scottish and Ad+ Alpine - And hoping to do a few grade 4s before the end of winter. Is this enough for these routes and what routes in U.K are good prep climbs (Tower ridge perhaps?)

Cheers

In reply to bignath:

I've done the Mittellegi Ridge, it's not hard (V Diff?) with big ropes at the steep bit, snow crest leads to the summit.

It's crap other than I've sat ontop of the Eiger, my Dad was impressed when I returned home.

We descended the SW Ridge onto the Monchjock Glacier, this was actually more fun. Bivvied, did NE Face of Monch early next morning.

Evenings spent browsing on UKC is more than enough preperation.

Stuart

In reply to bignath: Can't say first hand about the Mittelligi (yet) but *with a guide* the Hornli is fine for anybody that's reasonably fit and especially if you have any little alpine experience whatsoever. They take up even complete beginners by the hundreds.

In reply to John Blab:

Cheers, yeh I know that and in my view its a problem but I like to make good progress and get on with it rather than being dragged up. I'm only using a guide because you can be fairly sure they know what they are doing and therefore won't endanger you like a stranger or a mate who's not up to it.

In reply to bignath

Hello and good luck. Stuart's disparaging remark that it is "crap" is rather unfair. It is a brilliant route and, when undertaken "on sight" and with your mates, it is pretty exciting. Sometimes, more exciting than you might wish…..

The short answers are: (1) yes (2) yes. However, if you change your mind and climb with friends...

The Hornli ridge can become very crowded and you need to be careful about stonefall from above. In contrast, you might see nobody at all on the Mittellegi ridge, which is a more technical route (and more fun).

The Mittellegi, although more technical than the Hornli, is not a difficult route as such. However, the route is exposed and proper rope techniques are essential, particularly on the higher snow slopes from which it is a free fall to the green pastures below.

In good conditions you can get to the hut in an hour and a half but in warm, wet, sloppy conditions (stay in the pub) it might take all day as the crevasses run in the same direction as your route.

The Mittellegi route is only 2200ft in length and the Eiger summit is much lower than the Matterhorn. If you get out of your bunk at the Mittellegi hut early enough, you can be on the summit for breakfast, down the West Flank during the morning and at the Eigergletscher station for lunch. This will probably be the case when you go with your Guide. It is described in one guide book as "an easy day for the ladies".

On the other hand, if you encounter poor conditions, and if the weather comes in - as it does on the Eiger - you can get into a lot of trouble. A Guide will avoid these things (chuck it in) whereas, in a private climbing group of friends, you might keep at it and end up in trouble and end up bivoucking.

If the ridge is in Scottish grade 3 condition, you should be in a pub in Grindelwald. The Eiger has a weather system of its own, so don't rely on a national forecast. If you are not going with a Guide, seek weather advice from their office and sign up for their (very cheap) heli-support for the route. They will monitor your progress to some extent; if everything goes pear-shaped it is comforting to know that somebody knows where you are and when you are due back. Handy in the days before mobile phones…

I would describe the Mittellegi as a serious route, requiring good rope technique and great care. In particular, if you are climbing with your mates, be sure they are your regular climbing mates in whom you are happy to trust your life. If I were asked for a single word of advice, it would be, on this route, don't take a stranger onto your rope.

More advice: stay roped up on the entire route, from the moment you leave the Eismeer tunnel, to the final glacier descent. Be especially careful on the descent (West Flank). People die there; you can fall over the edge. It's not all over until you are down at the railway. If you are crossing the last glacier in the evening, beware if it is soft. Stay roped up. People vanish there.

Beware of stormy weather; the Eiger attracts lightning. I have the tee-shirt.

If you stick to your plan of climbing with a Guide, you will have no problems and Scottish Grade 3 will be more than adequate. Climbing with your mates will require much more thought and care, both in the preparation for, and in the execution of the climb. It IS a climb. You do not have to be on the North Face to die on the Eiger.

Good luck and enjoy yourself, on this terrific route. Contact me if you wish.